I love a sun burnt County...

[DT-P38]

Been checking out brakes on the count today and looking at the suspension bushes etc in preparation to drive it away from the PO's shed (to my cousins shed!) soon. Brakes seem fine but will need a fluid change and service. Most rubber steering and suspension joints/bushes are knackered (see photo's below of rear radius arm bushes) but that won't blow the budget.

What I am amazed at is the relative sophistication in the design of the suspension for it's age. With the self leveling unit (do they work?) and A frame set up on the rear, I reckon my new old 1985 LR truck is better set up than my Mrs (soon to be gone!) 105 series 2001 model land cruiser! I am also thinking looking at the lengths of the links and arms that the count will also have better articulation at each corner?

16 years is a pretty ordinary period to be behind the game.

[justinc]

Just make sure you use ONLY rubber bushes, not that red urethane stuff that has split...

JC

[clive22]

Hi Dave,



X2 I agree, use original (OEM) rubber bushes steer away from the after market stuff.

It's a lot more relative on sticker price but may be not that much if you have to do them all again in too short a time. On My '85 County the OEM replacements have lasted well nearly 4 years now. There a few threads around on which bush, think they all ending up working to the same point - get OEM.

With the self leveller there a thread about rebuilding them it's probably worn& ineffective now

Boge leveller.
Mine wore out and I removed it unless I load up heavy I don't notice the difference.

I'd be checking the rear ball joint, clunk (diff rotating) when you let the clutch out, get a Maxi drive one as you can grease

I'd also be checking the swivel bearing lower and top pin, probably worn and need rebuilding or at least pre loading. Buy OEM or Timken grade lower bearings, they pit and make the steering notchy and/or loose

Id' also be looking at the steering damper and all the ball ends, drag link ends, and check the pitman arm is not worn on the steering box sector shaft.

These things made a huge difference to driving mine when I re mediated all the steering & suspension gear on my '85.


Clive

[DT-P38]

Just make sure you use ONLY rubber bushes, not that red urethane stuff that has split...

JC

Cool, have heard that standard Rubber are best all round for comfort and flexibility. But also understand SuperPro PU bushes are the go for a more sporting tighter feel. They last and perform as good as ( if not better than) OEM rubber without the need for 20 ton press to install. Just went through the research process on a P38's group buy and we ended up with 2 kits... One full Superpro and one OEM Rubber with Superpro radius arm bushes to avoid the special tools dramas.

Anyone know who makes the red ones? There are quite a few styles available in the UK (britpart-****part) that are supposedly pretty nasty.

[DT-P38]

Hi Dave,

X2 I agree, use original (OEM) rubber bushes steer away from the after market stuff.

It's a lot more relative on sticker price but may be not that much if you have to do them all again in too short a time. On My '85 County the OEM replacements have lasted well nearly 4 years now. There a few threads around on which bush, think they all ending up working to the same point - get OEM.

With the self leveller there a thread about rebuilding them it's probably worn& ineffective now

Boge leveller.
Mine wore out and I removed it unless I load up heavy I don't notice the difference.

I'd be checking the rear ball joint, clunk (diff rotating) when you let the clutch out, get a Maxi drive one as you can grease

I'd also be checking the swivel bearing lower and top pin, probably worn and need rebuilding or at least pre loading. Buy OEM or Timken grade lower bearings, they pit and make the steering notchy and/or loose

Id' also be looking at the steering damper and all the ball ends, drag link ends, and check the pitman arm is not worn on the steering box sector shaft.

These things made a huge difference to driving mine when I re mediated all the steering & suspension gear on my '85.

Clive

Spot on about the ball joints and links and dampeners... They are all pretty well shot. Haven't had a good look at the steering box but the dampner is a mess so will check it all out over the next week.

How hard is swivel bearings reco for a DIY'er?

Lots of quoting and buying to do this week... Next week steering & suspension refresh!

[JDNSW]

Spot on about the ball joints and links and dampeners... They are all pretty well shot. Haven't had a good look at the steering box but the dampner is a mess so will check it all out over the next week.

How hard is swivel bearings reco for a DIY'er?

Lots of quoting and buying to do this week... Next week steering & suspension refresh!

Swivels are not too hard if you've done a bit of mechanical work. A press or a large vice are just about essential though.

John

[clive22]

Hi

My swivel balls took me about 5/3 hours first side/second side, working on the driveway and for the first time.


I got the parts from series in GB using mostly original parts. Get plenty of extra shims as the new bearings sit higher and push the railko bush up requiring more shims, I ended up short cutting mine by hand cause of this.

You'll need a small hydraulic press to push the top bush out, mine were in too tight for any other way. I gotta cheapy of ebay you'll use for suspension bushes, UJs, and steering bits.

With the tie rod end use Lemforder brand there about twice the price, but seem to last well, mine have done 20000k mostly /ladendirt/4wd no problems. I think there german and they don't have a grease nipple. There are threads on here that go through this choice at length.

I'd have a good look at the steering box I ended up changing mine due to excessive freeplay and so wander the road. Also check the UJs on the steering coulmn they may be not a free as they should be.

Once you do everything they steer pretty good and should ride exceptionally well for a 25 year vehicle. Be very careful if you replace your spring & dampers not to go too stiff (read heaps), you'll ruin the ride and so the best feature of the old county.I made a few mistakes this way.

Clive