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Thread: front diff help needed

  1. #1
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    front diff help needed

    hi all i hope someone can help was planing on fitting a eaton limited slip to the front of my 110 allready got the maxi drive axles all round and upgraded cvs but i have a lot of play coming from the front diff had it checked by my landy mechanic in cairns i have excessive movement in the pinion&crown wheel any suggestions on what to do would be appreciated would still like some form of locker or limited slip for the front im in cairns dont know of any diff guys up here the place seems preety dodgy cheers

  2. #2
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    One of the out of curiosity projects I did was to compare the price of getting a provided center put into a carrier (quote only) with new carrier bearings and new pinion bearings with the stated assumption that the pinion and crown wheel were sound against a from scratch DIY.

    It was cheaper to go and buy the workshop manual, the bearings and a small stack of shims, a DTI + mount, a vernier, some files and a block of steel then make the height block and build the diff.

    IF you dont have one already, buy the Rave CD the instructions for the diff are in there.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    I had a bit of slop in the center of my front diff. It was decided that a better result would be obtained by using a locking center instead of replacing with another rover front. I suggest you make some inquiries at your local ARB. If you're handy with the tools then the world is your oyster in as far as you can order in from overseas any number of different lockers/LSD etc. I personally like the idea of making the decision my self as to when to lock my diffs.

    If your going to give it a go yourself then look at Lucky8 or Ashcrofts.
    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    ........

    Maybe we're expecting too much out of what really is a smallish motor allready pushing 2 tonnes. Just because it's a v8 doesn't mean it's powerfull.

    One answer REV IT BABY REV IT!!!

  4. #4
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    As you probably know, play in the crown wheel/pinion is not uncommon in a diff. These parts need to mesh correctly in order to ensure good force transfer while not meshing so tightly that excessive heat is created/their contact surfaces wear too quickly.

    Setting up these gears is, I understand (I don't do this for a living), best done using an appropriate marker ink, which allows the mesh pattern to be 'read' from the crown wheel teeth. A good place to start if you're thinking of rebuilding your diff would be Randy's Ring and Pinion - he's put together a very helpful article with photos. Also good are the how-tos from Yukon Gear and Axle as well as from the Billa Vista Tech Garage (you should be able to find them via Google).

    Although Blknight recommends using the setting block for pinion gear/crown wheel mesh, I believe that it is easier to simply start with the pinion shims that come out once you strip (provided that you intend reusing these components), and then work your way to the final correct shims. You'll need to do that whether or not you use a setting block, although the setting block is intended to allow you to calculate the precise depth (as detailed in the LR workshop manual).

    The above is with regard to crown wheel/pinion play. Whether or not you fit an LSD, or locking (clutch- or manual-operated) third member, is another issue and really depends on how you drive. If however you DO fit an alternate third member, you'll STILL need to reset the crown wheel/pinion, as well as the carrier bearing pre-load.

    It's complicated but not rocket science - as long as you're thorough, stubborn and willing to redo the various steps required in setting everything up, you'll be fine.

  5. #5
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    Hi,
    For what its worth, I have used a piece of solder and run it through the gears, then using a micrometer you can read the thickness and therefore the clearance.
    I'm sure there are better ways but it worked for me.
    As it's been said, get the info and take it slow, you'll be fine.

    TD

  6. #6
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    front ddiff

    Quote Originally Posted by mudder110 View Post
    hi all i hope someone can help was planing on fitting a eaton limited slip to the front of my 110 allready got the maxi drive axles all round and upgraded cvs but i have a lot of play coming from the front diff had it checked by my landy mechanic in cairns i have excessive movement in the pinion&crown wheel any suggestions on what to do would be appreciated would still like some form of locker or limited slip for the front im in cairns dont know of any diff guys up here the place seems preety dodgy cheers
    thanks for the info everyone, will help me make a decision i can get a new origanale rover one two pin for $1200 maybe i could sell the carier then put a locker in expensive way to go though cheers

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDman View Post
    Hi,
    For what its worth, I have used a piece of solder and run it through the gears, then using a micrometer you can read the thickness and therefore the clearance.
    I'm sure there are better ways but it worked for me.
    As it's been said, get the info and take it slow, you'll be fine.

    TD
    ahh the bodgy mans plastigauge.

    DO NOT do this with the new leadless solder
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    Hi there. I've just done this in my 130. If you choose to fit a Truetrac, you get the whole carrier and just need to reset your Crown-wheel and Pinion. If you can, I'd be finding a second hand diff out of a Defender or Range Rover and building up a nice diff with lock or what ever you choose then its just a case of undoing the swivel to axle casing bolts and fitting your rebuilt one when ready.. No pressure then! Check in 'driveline parts for sale', or put a 'wanted' advert up. Someone will know someone who has a diff. Remember to use the correct templates in your wanted advert so as not to upset anyone!!


    Found this on Ebay. Item No 300886232420. Build it into this, then when fitted, sell yours on Ebay and get some cash back!
    Last edited by Sitec; 4th May 2013 at 09:00 AM. Reason: eBay find.

  9. #9
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    front diff

    Quote Originally Posted by Sitec View Post
    Hi there. I've just done this in my 130. If you choose to fit a Truetrac, you get the whole carrier and just need to reset your Crown-wheel and Pinion. If you can, I'd be finding a second hand diff out of a Defender or Range Rover and building up a nice diff with lock or what ever you choose then its just a case of undoing the swivel to axle casing bolts and fitting your rebuilt one when ready.. No pressure then! Check in 'driveline parts for sale', or put a 'wanted' advert up. Someone will know someone who has a diff. Remember to use the correct templates in your wanted advert so as not to upset anyone!!



    Found this on Ebay. Item No 300886232420. Build it into this, then when fitted, sell yours on Ebay and get some cash back!
    thanks for the usefull info could i use one out of a series 1 or a td5 dsco
    as there is a couple up here cheers

  10. #10
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    The Ser 1 Disco diff should fit... Not sure about the Td5 Disco diff tho....

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