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Thread: 110 Brakes

  1. #1
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    110 Brakes

    Hi guys,

    I just drove a 1996 110 and thought the brakes seemed "dead". Are all defender brakes very heavy or do they need replacing?

    I thought they'd be pretty good considering they are disks.

    thanks,
    David

  2. #2
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    Dead as in hard pedal?
    Likely to be a dead brake booster or possibly dodgy vacuum pump. Its common for the boosters to crack near the master cylinder mount bolts.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  3. #3
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    No the brakes are pretty good if they are functioning correctly. As SteveG said check that the booster is working both the servo and vacuum pump are likely points of failure.
    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    ........

    Maybe we're expecting too much out of what really is a smallish motor allready pushing 2 tonnes. Just because it's a v8 doesn't mean it's powerfull.

    One answer REV IT BABY REV IT!!!

  4. #4
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    You could also just have a leak in a vacuum line. Follow it from the back of the alternator to where ever it goes. If you have a vacuum operated diff lock (like a maxi-drive) then make sure you there are no leaks in it.

    If you turn off the engine, you will gave a few seconds where you will be able to hear the hiss of any leak.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  5. #5
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    I was going to start a new thread but thought I would search previous ones first. I have a 1995 Defender 130 with a custom made mobile home on the back and has a gross weight of a about 3.1 tonne. Like the person that started this thread my brakes are feeling a bit hard as well. Also like the thread starter, with discs all around, I thought that they would be more responsive.

    What can I visually check myself? I am quite sure that the pads are okay as the previous owner kept everything tip top. Maybe it is a boost thingo.

  6. #6
    Simeon Guest

    Brake servo test

    The generic test for servo operation is to turn off the engine and repeatedly press the brake pedal. You should hear the hiss of the servo and feel its action but after 4-6 pedal presses you will have exhausted the vacuum and the pedal should now be hard and a lot higher. When you get to this stage, hold your foot on the pedal and start the car. The pedal should quickly sink as the vacuum builds and the servo operates.

    Any issues with this will mean a suspect servo (or vacuum leak, or a failed vacuum pump).

  7. #7
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    Does a small crack in the booster let the air escape and prevent the boost function?

  8. #8
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    110 Brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by Kidbeen View Post
    Does a small crack in the booster let the air escape and prevent the boost function?
    Yes, look for fine cracks around the master cylinder mounting bolts. They might not be obvious. It only takes a very small crack to affect booster function.
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  9. #9
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    Thanks Rijidig! Went to LR to see about booking it in for replacement. Gave me a rough quote of $550.

  10. #10
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    Why would you take a 20yo vehicle to a stealer rather than a brake specialist or a landie independent.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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