SOA on Series 2?

[jakeslouw]

Hi forumites

what issues will I pick up with a spring over axle conversion on a LR Series 2 109?

Part time 4x4 means the front prop only picks up strain when the t-case is in 4WD.
And the rear prop only drops <4 inches on the diff pinion end.

What else? ?

Rear prop cut-out in the cross-member?

Technical answers only please, not comments about commonness and destroying the image / look / whatever.

[MR LR]

You may (probably will) find axle tramp to be an issue, so look into the possibility of traction bars/radius arms. Particularly for the rear.

Cheers
Will

[JDNSW]

Have a good think about steering linkage - without some serious modifications the drag link from the relay will be at a considerable angle, meaning a lot of bump steer that you could probably do without.

The flywheel housing crossmember will need a cutout - this was needed on the military chassis with a 2" lift, more so with spring over.

John

[jakeslouw]

You may (probably will) find axle tramp to be an issue, so look into the possibility of traction bars/radius arms. Particularly for the rear.

Cheers
Will

Hi Will

On a standard 2.25p with standard springs? OK, didn't think so but a top radius arm will be considered.

[jakeslouw]

Have a good think about steering linkage - without some serious modifications the drag link from the relay will be at a considerable angle, meaning a lot of bump steer that you could probably do without.

The flywheel housing crossmember will need a cutout - this was needed on the military chassis with a 2" lift, more so with spring over.

John

Thanks John. I'm doing the SOA so that I can fit RRC axles, would the linkage then still be an issue?

Yes, front cross-member and rear prop-shaft "hole" will need work.

[JDNSW]

Thanks John. I'm doing the SOA so that I can fit RRC axles, would the linkage then still be an issue?

Yes, front cross-member and rear prop-shaft "hole" will need work.

Yes, the lever on the RRC axle is about the same level as the Series one.

As far as I can visualise it, you would need to devise some way of putting the relay at least 100mm lower - hard to see how this could be done, so perhaps a possibility would be an extra relay lower and on the left, and use an LHD axle. The alternative would be to extend the shaft of the relay and build a custom relay perhaps twice the original length. Any solution would seem to be quite difficult!

This sort of problem may help explain why you never hear much about these sort of conversions.

John

[jakeslouw]

Attached is the RRC steering layout.

It would appear that spring under axle could in fact work?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

You can also reduce axle tramp by having the axle housing fixed forward of the centre bolt. You find this on US vehicles like the F series trucks.

The modification of the 2nd crossmember is merely a scallop out of the top/front edge where the prop shaft runs. You will find the same cut out on the series forward controls.

To resolve bump steer, you can do a caster correction by slotting the bolt holes in the swivel balls and rotating the diff pinion angle up instead of rotating the original housing. If you do this you will need to fit a double-cardan joint on the prop shaft.

For the drag link, you can always use the late SII/early SIIa pendant type steering levers (on top of the housing) but you should machine the reverse taper so the ball joint is on the top, not underneath as original.

[jakeslouw]

Thanks for all that.

For the drag link, you can always use the late SII/early SIIa pendant type steering levers (on top of the housing) but you should machine the reverse taper so the ball joint is on the top, not underneath as original.

Not sure I'm getting the right picture in my head.

Some bright spark said it is possible to use a Series 2 swivel pin housing assembly on the RRC axle?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I'm not talking about using Range Rover assemblies, I'm talking about using original series axle assemblies.

On Series 1, Series 2 and early Series 2a, the steering levers (that attach the tie rods ends) on the swivel housings are bolted to the top of the housing and hang down in front. (Called pendant type in the manual because they hang down like a pendulum) In 1962/63 during S2a the steering levers changed from the top of the housing to the bottom of the housing and continued that way till the end of Series 3. (These are called non-pendant, because they hang up from the bottom unlike a pendulum)

You can't use the Series 1 and early Series 2 steering levers because the studs are a smaller size, but the last of the S2a pendant steering levers used the same stud size that continued on through S2a and S3.