Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Getting there.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bendigo
    Posts
    1,643
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Getting there.

    So I set about replacing the oil pump last Tuesday, isolated a noise, did compression test, stripped it down to find the camshaft eaten to bits after only 12, 000km, the fan had small fractures on it, and the 18 month old britpart (****part) water pump leaking.
    Fitted new 215 cam and lifters from Triumph Rover Spares and set lifter preload, then pladtiguaged main bearings and found them out of spec. So last light I set about replacing the bearing shells. They were all good except the thrust bearing. Got the new one in 2/3s of the way but not any further; and then it wouldn't come back out. The father in law suggested lifting the crank back up and by driving a prybar into the back of the bearing it came out. I got the old (but still in good condition) thrust bearing back in.

    But I've now got a nick in the crank journal. ... So today using a rat file I'll take the top off the nick, then smooth it with some 1000 grit paper, then polish it with a leather glove and wd40 - hopefully it works. .....

    Hopefully the cam works well.

    Thanks for reading my bitch session...:what:

    Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mindarie, Western Australia
    Posts
    1,141
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    So I set about replacing the oil pump last Tuesday, isolated a noise, did compression test, stripped it down to find the camshaft eaten to bits after only 12, 000km, the fan had small fractures on it, and the 18 month old britpart (****part) water pump leaking.
    Fitted new 215 cam and lifters from Triumph Rover Spares and set lifter preload, then pladtiguaged main bearings and found them out of spec. So last light I set about replacing the bearing shells. They were all good except the thrust bearing. Got the new one in 2/3s of the way but not any further; and then it wouldn't come back out. The father in law suggested lifting the crank back up and by driving a prybar into the back of the bearing it came out. I got the old (but still in good condition) thrust bearing back in.

    But I've now got a nick in the crank journal. ... So today using a rat file I'll take the top off the nick, then smooth it with some 1000 grit paper, then polish it with a leather glove and wd40 - hopefully it works. .....

    Hopefully the cam works well.

    Thanks for reading my bitch session...:what:

    Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app
    Hang in there Benji, it can only get better!

    Gary

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Carnegie
    Posts
    1,226
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So what's the prognosis - dodgy/worn oil pump has led to premature failure of the camshaft?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,556
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi

    Good luck with it mate, that sounds painful!

    Steve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,581
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'm batting for ya up here mate! Good luck!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,556
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi

    Just a note on the water pump, to me it is pretty clear that any play or dodgyness in any of the other pulleys involved with the poly-v belt puts additional strain on the water pump and leads to premature failure.

    That said, I too have found ****part to be a little hit and miss

    Steve

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Coogee, South of Fremantle, WA
    Posts
    1,550
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Benji, sounds like you are being tested, I hope it all ends well. Are you doing this with the engine in situe? If so was it a task to get the cam out and back in.

    Steve, I agree on the Pulleys. One of the jobs I did before I started using the new car, also changed them all on the previous car. ( Did bearings only, where I could. )

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,242
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You can remove the cam with engine in situ... see Head Gasket Time... scroll down to post # 18 (pics)
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    3029 Melbourne
    Posts
    618
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Oh man! I feel for ya Benji, hope it all ends well. Don't rush it mate it'll only be more painful - patience & talk to the beast nicely, it may just co-operate.
    All the best.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bendigo
    Posts
    1,643
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks guys; very much appreciated. Sometimes a lending ear (or eye on this case) is the best of all.

    To get the cam out you'll need to take out the radiator and engine oil cooler, lift the trans cooler with the hoses attached to very top of the radiator support brackets and bolt on place, undo the radiator support brackets and shift the whole lot towards the engine, and leaning the aircon condensor forward there's just enough room to get the cam out without its wheel on.

    I knocked the top of the nicks with the rat file last night, and hit it with some 400 grit and is coming up really well. Going to hit it with some 1000 grit this arvo.
    Got all but number 3 cap on with the new shells, starter motor, exhaust manifold, steering column, and a few other things last night. So hopefully it'll all be back together this arvo. ..



    Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!