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Thread: sealing the roof above the gutter

  1. #1
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    sealing the roof above the gutter

    I have a 1961 SWB and it leaks slightly from the roof. I have recently replaced all the rubbers but where it is leaking from is above the gutter, so whatever they put in there on the outside has cracked or something. what did they use to seal that or is there a newer and better product? or will plain old bog do the job?

  2. #2
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    Sikaflex will make a suitable sealant.
    Not sure what they used originally but there are a lot of rivets to take out and replace to do the job properly plus the rivets need a proper setting tool.

    I was told about someone who had removed the roof panel from the galvanised gutter/frame and was then struggling to get the correct rivets (they are available on eBay).





    Colin
    Last edited by gromit; 19th August 2014 at 09:14 PM. Reason: Picture added
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  3. #3
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    I used pop-rivets and sealed them and the lid with Sikaflex Adhesive, which means it will never come apart again, even if I want it to.

    Any windscreen sealant will work, but some of them dry out with age, which is what had happened on mine and probably yours.

    Have a look at the Sikaflex range and see what suits you,

    Cheers Charlie

  4. #4
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    Removing the rivets, cleaning, sealing and re-riveting is the only way to get a good job. Just doing beads of sealant around the joint almost never works in the medium term. Its a tedious job all round.

    Firstly drilling out the original rivets and then getting correct replacements. It is rather difficult to get the correct rivets, mostly they are too long. A good friend and a bit OCD with his restorations, bought the closest rivet he could find, cut them to the correct length and used a burr to put the dimple in each rivet.

    Remember to force some sealant (Sikaflex of some sort) into the joint between the leading edge panel and the front roof panel, particularly where it curves over at the sides.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #5
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    Rivets here [ame="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Landrover-Series-Roof-Gutter-Rivets-50-5-32-Semi-Tubular-Truss-Head-/320978441364?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM& hash=item4abbce5494"]Landrover Series Roof Gutter Rivets 50 5 32" Ø Semi Tubular Truss Head | eBay[/ame]

    Because they are semi-tubular rivets you need a setting tool. Could probably make something that would do the job.
    Timing would be interesting as you lay the roof panel down in the sealant and then try to set every rivet before it goes off.

    If you thoroughly cleaned/sanded the roof edge & guttering, then laid down a bead of paintable seam sealant and then painted over it should hold the leaks back for quite a while. Not perfect but easier/simpler/cheaper.
    The alternative.....get a roof from another vehicle.



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  6. #6
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    you all seem to have the sealant pretty good, anything will do almost, avoid silastic/silicone ascetic cure sealants as they corrode aluminium.


    I prefer to use terostat sealant, it is the best stuff we have found in our game, fixing aircraft, it doesn't set off in the tube and lasts very well after the tube is opened, and is structurally strong with a set off time of about an hour to two depending on temp of the day and humidity, got both of those here on the gold coast!


    for those of you that want to remove the roof from the galvanised rim,
    when you have it all clean , wack your sealant all around the joint and rush around with a lot of pop rivets to get it all secure and in place before the sealant goes off.
    then go around and drill out every second pop rivet, wack in your solid rivets and then do the remainder
    Safe Travels
    harry

  7. #7
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    This might be of interest, I found some mention of a 3M product among some Rover nuts overseas and they all claimed good results......3M Self Levelling Seam Sealer 08307. The web info & utube videos look good.

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