oil filled hubs - who's actually done it?

[blackapache]

So I'm doing the tie rod ends, bushings and wheel bearings in the next few weeks and I'm thinking i wanna make the maintenance of said bearings a little easier.

Ive been through all the tech topics and there is good stuff in there but id love to know who's actually running oil fed bearings and whats the result.

I see it like this - Converting the front hubs to oil lube has 2 main options:

1. Wheel bearing & swivel housing oil compartment + diff oil compartment separate

2. Wheel bearing, swivel housing and diff oil as 1 compartment.

Lots of people seem to run the first option, I'm thinking I'd like to venture down the second path and have one single system for all.. i know theres talk of oil compatibility for CV's etc but the old trucks ran this setup no? the main disadvantage is what happens when you lose a seal.. I'm not doing any long range touring etc so i really like the idea of ease of maintenance.

I'd love to hear from any forum guys running this setup and what they think so far.

cheers

[MLD]

I have the front set up as option 1 and rear as option 2. I took on water in my rear diff and the consequence was buggered wheel bearings and carrier bearings due to the lack of separation. Thus as a heads up, if you go option 2 be mindful that contaminated oil can and will migrate throughout and you might end up with buggered bearings end to end. Regular oil changes and a check after water crossings is the form of early detection and prevention.

For the rear oiled bearings help prevent spine wear on the drive shafts.

MLD

[I Love My Landy!]

I have done option 1 and i have never had any problems (i don't do many water crossings though). You may just need to apply silicone to your rubber axle end caps to prevent oil leaking out onto your wheel.

Edward

[Judo]

I use silicone instead of gaskets in most places as well.

Also to stop leaks you will need to change the inner hub seal to an oil seal (RTC3511). The one currently installed might be a grease seal only.

[rick130]

I hate RTV silicon so either use Loctite 515 or 518 (stub axle to axle tube) or paper gaskets (drive flange to hub) and don't have leaks.
The beauty of the paper drive flange to hug gasket is that it all comes apart cleanly, no bloody scraping !

The RTC3511 hub seal is the only one to use, regardless of oil or greased wheel bearings, as it keeps the water out as well as the lube in.
All other versions are inferior.

[Blknight.aus]

yep, I've even been knwn to drill and tap grub screws into the drive flange so you can change the oil and check its condition as well as top it up.

[PAT303]

It all mix's over time so I don't bother getting fancy,oil all the way except hubs. Pat

[jboot51]

Oil from flange to flange. Front and rear.
That way the diff breathers are utilised.

[MacFamily]

X1

Oil from flange to flange, front and rear.

One other thing I did when I converted the front was replace the swivel bearings and set the correct pre-load and also replaced the wiper seal.

[schuy1]

The only problem with running the front diff system as 1 oiled unit is possible low oil starvation in 1 side if running consistently on a slope or high camber road, given that the risk is low, it is still a possibility. I run the rear hub to hub as a unit with maxi drive flanges, but run the front as 3 units , with maxi flanges.
Antoher consideration is with seperated compartments, an oil leak in 1, eg a swivel seal, does not lose the lot
Cheers Scott