It looks like you pulled more than just the liner, in that first shot, Keith.
Cheers, Mick.
As you know these are an Aussie built tractor and I have been getting this into going condition ready to try out my new slasher.
Nearly ready, compression test and leakdown test good. New oil and filter, recon IP new glow plugs etc , etc put in fuel and it fired right up.
Let it run for 10 mins or so then noticed the temp gauge was getting colder.
Something funny so stopped it and dipped the oil. Funny it wasnt grey when I started.
Well head gasket should have been OK so suspected the liner O rings as these have wet liners. I really did not want to remove the head but It would have to come off anyway.
Head gasket OK so filled the block with water , removed the sump and sure enough a slow drip of water from between the liner and block on No 4.
Took me a whole day to rig up a puller and pull the first liner.
It looks like you pulled more than just the liner, in that first shot, Keith.
Cheers, Mick.
1968 SIIa SWB
1978 SIII Game SWB
2002 130 Crew Cab HCPU
Yes, you would not believe the buildup of rust and crud in the water jacket.Especially no 4 at the back. Must have been half a cup.
Thats the advantage of a wet liner. All that can be cleaned out. Its harder with our Rover engines where most of that stays there.
Getting smarter, I have buggered the liner now as its chipped with the effort so now I am running a bead of weld around the top. Shrinks it a bit and this one came out slightly easier. In the first pic I snapped a pull rod using the breaker bar.
 ChatterBox
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						SupporterWill be following with interest as I will soon be doing a in frame rebuild on a 384 including new liners
Sent from my SM-G900F using AULRO mobile app
have a good one :D ken :wasntme:
MY07 L320 RANGE ROVER SPORT MORE GOODNESS TO COME
MY03 D2A TD5 EXTRA GOODIE ENHANCED :D now parting from life
1996 D1 300TDI GONE
08 ford ranger c/c
WRECKING DISCOVERY 2
PM ME FOR WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR
Yes the rebuild kits are not that expensive.
The most time consuming was making the plug to fit the bottom of the liner.
It had to be big enough to get a grip yet still fit inside the liner bore.
Because of the pressure involved I started the liner moving with one of the mill clamp bars across the bottom of the liner. The liner protrudes about an inch below the frame so thats enough to get it started. There is not much room and you have to watch you dont pull on the camshaft or cylinder wall.
I wrapped an old wool sock around the crank journals to protect them.
One I got the liner moving I swapped to the plug I made for the rest of the pull.
Waiting for bits for the Disco, I got back in to this.
Tried to fit the new liners but the would not go right in.
Looking down the hole I could see rust buildup on the sides so I used a few sanding drums in the die grinder and took it back bare, covering the crank journals again before hand.
The WSM says the liners should go in easily and be able to be rotated with a dry fit and no O ring. They do this now. Washed everything down with a kero gun and diesel. Just hope not much got into the mains or on the camshaft, but I gave it all a good wash.
Now to soap up the O rings, intall them, then the liners.
Interesting these engines. They have helicoil inserts for the head bolts inserted from new. Good idea, you can see they look like new still.
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterSome of the 414's with single plate clutches had "lifetime clutches" and after a lifetime of being driven harshly these clutches still never need replacing.
I wish they had these clutches available for modern vehicles !
There was a lot of forward thinking in the Inter 414 and I find mine very ergonomic for most people regardless of size.
Ian
Bittern
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						put the liners in the freezer overnight
Liners and pistons in. No 1 exhaust valve and seat were a bit pitted from water ingress, cleaned them up a bit and reassembled.
Starts and runs but could not drive untill I unstuck the clutch.
Some wire cable attatched to a tree, hand on stop control, clutch pedal depressed, start in 1st low, not enough momentum. 2nd low the same.
Third low nearly bucked me off but did the trick. I can now drive and change gears.
Currently painting the mudguards and bonnet after repairing rust.
Then fit the 3PL arms and hook up the slasher to see if the PTO all works.
Keith
That's looking great.
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