Crimping tool

[VladTepes]

Want to buy a decent one as I'll be using it for the Landy and the motorbike project.


I know little about the various styles available but a good ratchet crimper that will allow me to do the usual automotive cabling stuff, as well as Anderson powerpole crimps is what I need.


Please point me in the right direction.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I got away with one of these for many years:


Then I graduated to one of these for the automotive style spade connectors etc (Much easier to use, better crimp, but less 'features' as above):


For Heavy stuff I use one of these lug crimpers, realistically, if you only have a few connections to make, visit your local friendly auto elec, and throw a few bucks at him to make the crimps you need:


If you are going to work on massive stuff, the above is also available in a hydraulic version... but I don't see you needing it.

Crimping is a mechanical process, but what actually happens in the larger hex style crimps, is the copper conductor cold welds together.

[DoubleChevron]

If you have a look on ebay you can now buy hydraulic crimpers quite cheaply. The issue is the dies they have only go down to 4mm....



I'm sticking with this until such time as I can afford a quality crimper ..... soldering iron and heat shrink

seeya,
Shane L.

[scarry]

I got away with one of these for many years:


Then I graduated to one of these for the automotive style spade connectors etc (Much easier to use, better crimp, but less 'features' as above):


For Heavy stuff I use one of these lug crimpers, realistically, if you only have a few connections to make, visit your local friendly auto elec, and throw a few bucks at him to make the crimps you need:


If you are going to work on massive stuff, the above is also available in a hydraulic version... but I don't see you needing it.

Crimping is a mechanical process, but what actually happens in the larger hex style crimps, is the copper conductor cold welds together.

We ONLY use the genuine utilux crimpers,they are the only ones that hold up and do the crimps correctly.
We also very rarely use the pre insulated spade and other types of crimp lugs as it is very difficult to make sure the lugs are crimped correctly.This is critical when they carry high currents.
If needed you can get insulators that slide along the wire and over the smaller lugs,instead of insulated lugs.

[Roverlord off road spares]

Jayar have 2 pages of crimpers.
Cheers,
Mario

Search crimper | Jaycar Electronics

[towe0609]

I have a Toledo crimp set and am very happy with it, especially the quick change of the dies. It does a neat job on the Econoseal J series connectors too. Looks like Rhino Tools offers the same product.

It will do the 50A Andersons, but you really need something larger - a dedicated tool about $20 on ebay.

[DoubleChevron]

I still don't have a lot of faith in the ratchet crimpers. To get a tight crimp you need the wire to be 100% matched size wise to the terminal your using otherwise they can go intermittent.... at least that's my experience. That's why I still solder everything.

Have any of you guys tried the hydraulic crimpers. 8ton crimpers are cheap these days.

8 TON Hydraulic Crimper Cable Wire Force Crimping Tool KIT 9 DIE 4mm 70mm | eBay

I imagine these would create a crimp equivelant to the factory crimps on our cars.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Tombie]

I have the basic, ratchet and hydraulic crimpers...

Fantastic gear - spend as much as you can on a quality unit... (get the best your budget allows)...


And like Scarry said - check and confirm your crimp - sometimes a second go is worth the effort...

[VladTepes]

I have a Toledo crimp set and am very happy with it, especially the quick change of the dies. It does a neat job on the Econoseal J series connectors too. Looks like Rhino Tools offers the same product.

It will do the 50A Andersons, but you really need something larger - a dedicated tool about $20 on ebay.

I checked with the linked Toledo seller and they quoted $270 as a 'discounted' price from $320. They say it won't be the same as the Rhino one (listed at $110 plus $10 postage) given the price difference.



Supercheap Auto have it listed at $199.


Well I certainly won't be buying it from the first place ! Rhino certainly seems the better option !


I see Rhino also carry one with one less die and called their automotive kit. I assume this would have all I'd need?
http://www.rhinotools.com.au/crimpin...e-crimping-kit
$90 so even better if it's suitable.




Towe - this the tool you mean? Anderson Plug Cable Battery LUG Crimp Crimping Tool With Ratchet Operation AU | eBay


50A range it says - I don't plan on using such big gauge ones for the job I have (LED lights don't need anywhere near that current) but was looking at the 'smallest' power poles. Wonder what crimper is needed for those?


The more I look into this the more confusing it gets !

[DoubleChevron]

I checked with the linked Toledo seller and they quoted $270 as a 'discounted' price from $320. They say it won't be the same as the Rhino one (listed at $110 plus $10 postage) given the price difference.



Supercheap Auto have it listed at $199.


Well I certainly won't be buying it from the first place ! Rhino certainly seems the better option !


I see Rhino also carry one with one less die and called their automotive kit. I assume this would have all I'd need?
5 Die Quick Change Crimping Kit | Quality ratchet crimper
$90 so even better if it's suitable.




Towe - this the tool you mean? Anderson Plug Cable Battery LUG Crimp Crimping Tool With Ratchet Operation AU | eBay


50A range it says - I don't plan on using such big gauge ones for the job I have (LED lights don't need anywhere near that current) but was looking at the 'smallest' power poles. Wonder what crimper is needed for those?


The more I look into this the more confusing it gets !

Unless it's a high heat area (eg: beside a turbo charger or exhaust manifold) why don't you just solder them I use a torch for 5+mm wires, and small superscope iron for smaller wires. Once soldered they are "done" for life as far as I can tell (unless it's a wire that moves a lot, if it does the wire will fatigue and break at the end of the soldered joint... eg: wiring plugs from engine -> firewall where there isn't enough flex in the wires). If it's somewher the wire is tied down and never moves ... heat shrink and solder IMO is a the most permanent fix out there

seeya,
shane L.