Crimping tool

**towe0609** · 20th August 2015, 06:21 PM

Originally Posted by VladTepes

Rhino certainly seems the better option !

I see Rhino also carry one with one less die and called their automotive kit. I assume this would have all I'd need?
5 Die Quick Change Crimping Kit | Quality ratchet crimper
$90 so even better if it's suitable.

Towe - this the tool you mean? Anderson Plug Cable Battery LUG Crimp Crimping Tool With Ratchet Operation AU | eBay

50A range it says - I don't plan on using such big gauge ones for the job I have (LED lights don't need anywhere near that current) but was looking at the 'smallest' power poles. Wonder what crimper is needed for those?

The more I look into this the more confusing it gets !

Others with more experience that me should feel free to correct me. But in my limited experience, that tool is fine for the 50A andersons. It looks exactly like the one I have.

The non-insulated terminal die is fine for the 15A Andersons - you just need to be careful to orient the lug the right way round (don't try to crimp the side with the slit - it will just open up).

If it were me I'd buy a $20 tool for the Andersons and the Rhino Automotive Ratchet kit for $90 and see how you go - you can always pick up one of those hydraulic crimpers later. I cannot see any difference visually between that Rhino tool and the Toledo - even the markings on the case are identical.

**VladTepes** · 21st August 2015, 11:03 AM

Originally Posted by towe0609

I cannot see any difference visually between that Rhino tool and the Toledo - even the markings on the case are identical.

Indeed.

**Corgie Carrier** · 22nd August 2015, 11:16 AM

This is the one I bought and I find it comfortable and easy to use for all the jobs I have done.

Narva Battery Terminal Crimper 50Amp Anderson Plug Crimp LUG Cable Tool 56513 | eBay

**BadCo.** · 22nd August 2015, 12:11 PM

Originally Posted by towe0609

Others with more experience that me should feel free to correct me. But in my limited experience, that tool is fine for the 50A andersons. It looks exactly like the one I have.
.

The hexagonal ones are better. Those are the old style crimpers, all they do is pinch the crimp into the cable. Where as someone said earlier the hexagonal cold welds the copper.

**Toxic_Avenger** · 22nd August 2015, 02:23 PM

This Deutsch connector crimping tool is pornographic... but for approx $3K it would want to be

**Faceplant** · 7th November 2015, 12:28 PM

Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger

This Deutsch connector crimping tool is pornographic... but for approx $3K it would want to be

Those are manufactured by DMC. Heavily used in the aircraft industry. The frame (handles) are or were around $400.00 Aussie and the turrets or dies $150.00 each depending on connector type. I picked up a frame for $50.00 from my local pawn shop a few years ago. Even bargained the guy down from $75.00

The best small crimper set I've seen (for my use anyway) is the Wattmaster WATK007. Mainly because the dies store in the handle and are held in by magnets so can be quick changed ~$200.00 though. I don't like the crimpers with the dies in the blow mould cases as they invariably don't stay closed and tip the dies nside your toolbag.

For the bigger connections the Cabac 5-50mm hex crimpers are the go but once again aren't cheap at around $300.00.

**Judo** · 12th January 2016, 12:23 PM

I went to start a thread, but this seems pretty relevant!

If I want to make a battery lead, what is the best way to go? Eg. Cranking battery to chassis.

Is indent type OK, or should I go hex?

With the hex types, I'm a bit confused by the sizing. I thought common cable sizes were even numbered in B&S.

Eg.
4 B&S = 21mm2
6 B&S = 13mm2
8 B&S = 8mm2
10 B&S = 5mm2

But all the dies that come with the hex type crimpers mention 6mm, 10mm, 16mm, 25mm. All in between?!! Odd numbered B&S? I don't want to be 1 size out on every crimp....

Please help.

**BadCo.** · 12th January 2016, 12:30 PM

Hey Judo, definitely go hex, but I am biased.

With the sizing you are mixing automotive and electrical sizes there.

Electrical cable is measured in mm2 for cross sectional area. Buggered if I know what B&S means haha. Must be some imperial rubbish!

If you go to an electrical wholesalers you can get aflex and a suitable crimp and the crimper. But they will likely charge you heavily for your off the street cash sale.

Do you have any sparky mates?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

**Mick_Marsh** · 12th January 2016, 12:49 PM

Originally Posted by Judo

IIf I want to make a battery lead, what is the best way to go? Eg. Cranking battery to chassis.

Supercheap, Repco, Autobarn.
Off the shelf in varying lengths.

**Judo** · 12th January 2016, 04:27 PM

Originally Posted by BadCo.

Hey Judo, definitely go hex, but I am biased.

With the sizing you are mixing automotive and electrical sizes there.

Electrical cable is measured in mm2 for cross sectional area. Buggered if I know what B&S means haha. Must be some imperial rubbish!

If you go to an electrical wholesalers you can get aflex and a suitable crimp and the crimper. But they will likely charge you heavily for your off the street cash sale.

Do you have any sparky mates?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

B&S is Brown and Sharpe which is the same as AWG. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

I can see some logic in it but it is an American standard since the 1800's, so probably some imperial rubbish.

All the other sizes I mention are cross section areas.

I'm now hypothesising that the die sizes match the lug size which is slightly larger than the cable size? Eg. A 13mm2 cable goes in a 16mm2 lug? The diameter difference is only 0.5mm so maybe that is insignificant and that's how/why the sizing doesn't appear to align.

Seems legit.

Don't know any sparky's. I was thinking, "surely I'll need to make more various sizes leads in the future, I better buy a new tool".

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