Changing the "P" Gasket and taking the head off

[SavingTheDefender]

So weeping coolant tells me that I need to swap over the "P" Gasket.

I've also got a long running diesel knock so while the coolant is dropped I'm also going to take off the head to see if there is anything untoward going on inside.

Apart from a workshop manual and torque wrench, are there any other hints, tips, pointers or things I should be looking out for?

[roverrescue]

If you are unsure of the condition it is worth buying three of the long bolts that secure the water pump through the P-Gasket and into the housing. They have a habit of corroding quite nicely and new bolts are cheap insurance. Would probably pay to look into changing up the water pump while it is all apart and getting the radiator rodded.

On a defender the trick that you will quite likely fall for is when your all done and dusted and bolting the head back on, you will forget to install the air cleaner bracket under the head bolts... requiring you to untension and then retension them!
Its quite frustrating. My trick to remember is to put a note with the angle guage saying aircleaner!

Diesel knock can be a myriad of things - pulling the head may or may not reveal all???

steve

[PAT303]

May I suggest removing the gearbox in regards to the engine knock. Pat

[87County]

In addition to the above advice, I was told to have the deck (and the lower surface of the head if reusing it) scrupulously clean before reassembly and it seems to have paid off.

Instead of using grease to lube the head bolts & flanges on assembly, there is now a specific lube for the purpose.

Due to the stretch torquing procedure, many users use new bolts.

If using Permatex Ultra for a water pump sealant allow to set overnight.

[steane]

May I suggest removing the gearbox in regards to the engine knock. Pat

Be quieter if you just removed the engine wouldn't it? Use less fuel as well

[PAT303]

. Pat

[jboot51]

Disconnect the battery before removing the alternator


Drain the fluid from the block via the drain bung on the side between the alternator and turbo.


Loosen the water pump and p/s pulleys before you remove the serpentine belt.


release the p/s pump but leave it all connected, just lean it forwards.


Use a metal P-Gasket, there are still paper ones getting around.

[PAT303]

Serious post,change the three bolts,use ultra blue on the gasket,this part is important,make sure you rough up BOTH surfaces with 80 grid sand paper,you want it rough,tighten all the bolts evenly,all of them including the water pump bolts,imagine your torquing a head. Pat

[SavingTheDefender]

Thanks for the tips, although I will be leaving the engine and gearbox in situ for the moment! Gaskets have arrived so all I need now is a lazy Sunday afternoon.

Watch this space!

[SavingTheDefender]

It seems I might not be able to avoid digging in any longer as The D'Fer has started chuffing.

A part of me was hoping that things would hang on long enough for me to cost out a 3.9 Isuzu turbo and LT95 conversion.

The sound is predominately from the front of the engine rather than the firewall end and there are no obvious signs that it is the exhaust manifold.

The oil is not milky, there is no smoke and the power is spot on. So time to nip it all in the bud.

I'll be sure to take and post some photos as things get oily.