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Thread: Ways of mounting number plate?

  1. #1
    Babs Guest

    Ways of mounting number plate?

    Hi Guys,

    Just got the plates for Bongo today as it couldn't get NSW Rego being from SA.

    So ATM I have the rear plates zip tied to the spare wheel. They are the black and white NSW plates.

    So I plan on drilling the number plate bracket that sticks out on the back but was reluctant to drill or self tap to the body panel.

    I read somewhere and I might sound a little naive that steel screws could react with the alloy body , so I am not keen on drilling into the panel without checking first. I also thought about just putting a couple of dabs of sikaflex on the right side of the number plate. I figure a top and bottom bolt on the bracket that sticks out would be enough to keep it secure and the Sikaflex on the other side to keep it attached to the body panel.

    What are your thoughts, would I be OK to just go ahead and self tap into body panel or will I need some sort of coated self tapper. Like gal or zinc plated etc.

    Cheers I appreciate your opinions on this one,

    Babs.

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

  2. #2
    Narangga's Avatar
    Narangga is offline TopicToaster Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babs View Post
    Hi Guys,

    So I plan on drilling the number plate bracket that sticks out on the back but was reluctant to drill or self tap to the body panel.

    I read somewhere and I might sound a little naive that steel screws could react with the alloy body , so I am not keen on drilling into the panel without checking first.
    Cheers I appreciate your opinions on this one,

    Babs.

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
    Yes a common (and usual) occurrence with dissimilar metals.

    Sorry I can't help with the number plate fixing. I can't remember how my rear number plate was fixed on the Defender.
    Cheers, Dale
    PIC - It comes with the Territory

    'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
    2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
    Previously Enjoyed:
    2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
    2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
    1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted

  3. #3
    alien's Avatar
    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    I changed mine from screws to bolts and nutserts when I changed the plates.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
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  4. #4
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    You could look at using this stuff
    https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_i...AbsolutePage=1

    Sent from my D6653 using AULRO mobile app

  5. #5
    Babs Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by alien View Post
    I changed mine from screws to bolts and nutserts when I changed the plates.
    Is there alloy nutserts?

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

  6. #6
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    Yes there are Al nutserts. They don't take a lot of torque to strip out though. Food for thought.

    IIRC, in Aluminium, order of preference would be (best to worst) Aluminium, Zinc (Gal), steel, stainless.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  7. #7
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    There's steel & aluminium rivnuts/nutserts. The aluminium type are the easiest to fit if you don't have the tool for the job too.
    Scott

  8. #8
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    FWIW I just used used two large head aluminum rivets on the 130 rear number plate.

    Been like that since 2002 without issue.

  9. #9
    Babs Guest
    Sweet, alloy Rivnuts are the way to go.

    Where is the best place to buy them? Will Bunnings have them or would I have to go to a Supercheap, Repco etc.

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    All my number plates are pop riveted on with alloy rivets - makes them slightly less likely to be stolen by opportunists (a determined plate thief will have a battery drill). Also won't shake loose.

    Used this for many years without issues.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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