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Thread: Hacking a socket to make a tool-S3

  1. #1
    C00P Guest

    Hacking a socket to make a tool-S3

    Hi folks,
    I have need for a tool to tighten the nut that holds the gear on the output shaft from the gearbox where it goes into the transfer case.
    I have a Roverdrive fitted, but it is away for repair and there is a risk that it won 't get back before I am due to depart, so I may need to put my S3 LWB back in to standard configuration for this trip.
    I don;t have a tool number 600300 so figured I'd hack a piece of steel pipe or butcher a 1-1/4" socket to create one.
    I've never tried to hack up a socket before- would an angle grinder with cuttung wheel be able to do this job, or would I be better off attacking a piece of steel pipe? There is no torque setting for this nut in my manual, so I guess that means just get it as tight as you can and lock it with the tab washer?
    Cheers

    Coop

  2. #2
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    Or use a brass drift.

    Aaron

  3. #3
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    Grinder will get through it fine.

  4. #4
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    do people use a gasket when putting the cover back on or just goo?

    about to play the same game...
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  5. #5
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    Paper gasket and Permatex avaition form-a-gasket #3.

    Aaron

  6. #6
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    part number 622047

    ta
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
    "If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
    'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
    “What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
    "We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
    "The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius

  7. #7
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    an angle grinder with a cutting wheel will do the job BUT... you will find that either a 100 or 125mm grinding wheel (I forget which) is the same thickness as the gap you need to grind so skip the cutting wheel to start with and plough in with a new grinding wheel. then use a cutting wheel or hand file to finesse the edges.

    if you go the brass punch option have at it through the top inspection port from between the seats. Make sure to engage high range and 1st gear then roll the vehicle backwards so all the slack is out of the driveline and gearbox if possable have someone hang off of the crank handle out the front or at least put a reaction bar on the alternator nut to help hold everything in place so you dont have the drift jump due to the gears moving. (it also helps get a good hit on the nut)

    from memory the nut gets done up to 80ftlb.

    you can use the paper gasket with hylomar #3 (aviation formagasket non hardening #3 or that sticky brown stuff that gets everywhere) or you can use an oil resistant sealastic. The bearing in the cover is a needle roller so its distancing is not vital.
    Dave

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  8. #8
    C00P Guest
    Thanks everyone, especially Dave for that comprehensive reply. Will put the grinding wheel on and get on with it.
    Cheers

    Coop

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    an angle grinder with a cutting wheel will do the job BUT... you will find that either a 100 or 125mm grinding wheel (I forget which) is the same thickness as the gap you need to grind so skip the cutting wheel to start with and plough in with a new grinding wheel. then use a cutting wheel or hand file to finesse the edges.

    if you go the brass punch option have at it through the top inspection port from between the seats. Make sure to engage high range and 1st gear then roll the vehicle backwards so all the slack is out of the driveline and gearbox if possable have someone hang off of the crank handle out the front or at least put a reaction bar on the alternator nut to help hold everything in place so you dont have the drift jump due to the gears moving. (it also helps get a good hit on the nut)

    from memory the nut gets done up to .

    .
    I've tried that with limited success. 1.You need a top quality socket, a cheap one won't be strong enough after you cut out all the notches . 2. It's got to be a deep socket to clear the shaft.
    I doubt that you can tighten that nut to 80ftlb with a brass drift. Pieces of brass will break off before you reach that figure. If that nut is not tight enough it will work itself loose ,eventually breaking off the tab on the locker which then gets chewed up by the gears and bearings. But if you want to use your gearbox for only a few thousand kms,I reckon you will get away with it.
    I ended up making my own socket, not pretty but it works , and tightened that nut to 100 ftlbs by mistake.
    .W.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F. View Post
    I've tried that with limited success. 1.You need a top quality socket, a cheap one won't be strong enough after you cut out all the notches . 2. It's got to be a deep socket to clear the shaft.
    I doubt that you can tighten that nut to 80ftlb with a brass drift. Pieces of brass will break off before you reach that figure. If that nut is not tight enough it will work itself loose ,eventually breaking off the tab on the locker which then gets chewed up by the gears and bearings. But if you want to use your gearbox for only a few thousand kms,I reckon you will get away with it.
    I ended up making my own socket, not pretty but it works , and tightened that nut to 100 ftlbs by mistake.
    .W.
    Very good BSF, could you please let us know what kind of steel you used for the "fingers" ?

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