101 Wheel Nut Size

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

On the weekend I decided that I should try and change a wheel on my 101 - as I have never attempted it before.

My 101 has come with a shaft that has the correct nut size on the end, with a hole at the other end...

So my idea was - put the shaft on the nut, and insert a screw driver / metal pole in the other end - and loosen the nut...

Well that didn't work - the nut is on waaay to hard... I moved the 101 forward when trying to undo a nut, and bent my Range Rover jack handle in the process...

So my plan is to purchase a breaker bar + a socket.

Q: How big a breaker bar should I get (I'm guessing medium - certainly not small) ?

Q: What is the socket size that I need? (I have a vague memory of 24mm?)

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated, as always..

[67hardtop]

I dont know the wheel nut size but id be buying the longest breaker bar you can get. I have a snapon 24" breaker bar and i sometimes need to put a pipe on the end as well to undo things. It could be coz im getting a bit long in the tooth 😆.

Cheers Gg.
Rod

Oh and buy a single hex impact socket. Other sockets will crack.
Cheers
Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[101 Ron]

1 1/16 inch double deep impact socket......1/2 inch drive is what you need with a quality 1/2 breaker bar.
you need the double deep socket for the three front wheel special combination nut / studs that hold the front wheel tread steps.

[101 Ron]

It looks like you used the jack wind up bar onto a socket.
the jack bar is not designed to handle the torque of undoing wheel nuts.
By carrying a double deep impact socket you can offer it to the local tyre place if you get a flat changed as more times than not they will not have the correct item for their rattle gun.
Carry the breaker bar for the socket if you have to change a wheel on the side of the road.
The wheel nuts do not need to be super tight as they are working on a pressed metal wheel.
excessive torque just deforms the wheel centre and closes up the wheel nuts at the very end of the taper where the thread starts.
In fact it is a good idea if you have any wheel nuts off to run a tap though them...16mmx 1.5mm and you will see what I mean......the thread closes up though over torqueing and then starts giving the wheel stud threads a hard time.

[101 Ron]

The wind up bar for the jack has a hole in one end of it for a wooden handle.
this was the item on a standard 101 was carried cross the very front of the vehicle with the crank handle on Two spring loaded clips.
the other end of the wind up bar fits into the square drive of the standard jack that was supplied with the vehicle.

[Sitec]

Hi Tom. In my opinion, don't play with 1/2" sockets. Pop into your local tool store (or those dodgy trade stands at Ag shows), and buy yourself 1x 1 1/16" (or 27mm) 3/4 drive socket (the deepest one you can find.. Have one of your wheel step studs in your pocket when looking for the socket! ), 1 x short 3/4" extension bar (you need the shortest one which is approx 4" long), and 1 x Tee bar. All wheel nuts should be able to be undone with a standard 3/4 drive t bar. Anything longer and they're too tight. Also remember the three nuts that hold the step rings on the front wheels should be put on with the flat face to the step and the taper facing out. Many fit them and force the taper into the thin plate wondering why the wheel step deforms! If there's an option of a deep 3/4 drive 1 1/16" socket, grab it as its handy to get over the step support studs.

[Sitec]

Or consult Ebay....

You need one of these...
27mm 3 4" DR Deep AIR Impact Flank Single Metric Socket 6 Point Professional | eBay

and one of these...


3 4" Sliding T BAR Breaker BAR 20" Industrial Quality CRV Free Pick UP | eBay

Job done!

[Homestar]

Sitec's idea may be cheaper and stronger but I use a deep socket and a 36" Snapon 1/2" breaker bar - which is very expensive, but I've found if that doesn't undo things, usually nothing will.

I also find my Snapon cordless rattle gun will shift them too, but I use that at home, not out and about.

[grey_ghost]

Tight wheel nuts... Pfffft

They aren't that tight when you have a 100cm breaker bar, with a 3/4 inch deep socket on the end...



I tried a front wheel - to make sure that the socket could handle the longer stud/nuts due to the wheel steps.. Worked a treat.

I also tried the rear wheel that had been giving me trouble... Not anymore.

Although I have been going to the gym lately...

Onto my next test.... I had previously bought a Kingchrome 6,000kg bottle jack - as the 101 didn't come with a jack..

The bottle jack didn't extend far enough - so I had to use 2 x blocks of wood:




What are people's opinion? I had packed the wood just-in-case I had to change a tyre on a soft surface...

I do have a high-lift jack, although I've never used it in anger - I have used it to remove star picket posts, but that's another story.

Is using 2 blocks of wood a huge no-no? Obviously it is not ideal.

Do I need to invest in another jack - that can extend further than this one OR take the high-lift?

Thoughts? Ideas?

Cheers,
GG.

[Sitec]

Nice job on the breaker bar!! Don't over tighten them. Re the jack, the problem will arise when you have a flat.. You will be able to get the jack under but not the blocks. I used to carry an Iveco jack that had two stages.. Never did have a puncture, but had invisiged having to cross axle it to change a tyre! Apart from carrying a small axle stand and a few more blocks, I don't have a good suggestion. Re blocks, no prob with them. Hardwood are ideal if you can find them.