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Thread: Can I remove the heater matrix permanently?

  1. #1
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    Can I remove the heater matrix permanently?

    Title says it all really guys, I'm in a 110 TD5 it had the Aussie Sandon "faux" air con setup which I recently removed.

    I'm going to run a custom roof mounted unit on the interior roof behind the cage shortly. It'll be a hot/cold setup.

    So can I remove the heater matrix all together? I've had a persisting leak or two in there forever, I'd love to chuck the whole thing and maybe re plumb some ancillary lines particularly as mine feel quite soft under the car and rather than fork out to replace em I could get som silicone bits and rep limb the system on a short loop.

    Is this possible and if so any ideas the best place to plug or re plumb the lines?

    Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackapache View Post
    Title says it all really guys, I'm in a 110 TD5 it had the Aussie Sandon "faux" air con setup which I recently removed.

    I'm going to run a custom roof mounted unit on the interior roof behind the cage shortly. It'll be a hot/cold setup.

    So can I remove the heater matrix all together? I've had a persisting leak or two in there forever, I'd love to chuck the whole thing and maybe re plumb some ancillary lines particularly as mine feel quite soft under the car and rather than fork out to replace em I could get som silicone bits and rep limb the system on a short loop.

    Is this possible and if so any ideas the best place to plug or re plumb the lines?

    Cheers
    I cannot say much about your question but

    I saw the movies, all I know is you shouldn't mess with the matrix!!

    ( yeah sorry, hopefully someone will be along to help you shortly)
    (REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110

  3. #3
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    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    Yes and no.
    It can be removed but you will need to join the hoses to continue the coolant circuit.
    Coolant flow in the TD5's is important so I would not just blank it off.
    It's could be done by joining the hoses in the engine bay and fitting a blanking grommet to the fire wall.
    For a roadworthy I'm sure there must be faned heat at the windscreen vents.
    You need to be able to demist the windscreen other than with a rag.
    Cheers, Kyle



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    Just trying to jump the rails, honest...

    or alternatively no more posting before coffee for me.

    yes, you can remove the matrix and just bypass it. you must bypass it or your cooling system is not going the be happy with you.

    you will have problems with roadworthy unless you live up north due to the demister requirements, I dont think Ive ever had the heater checked when in townsville or the territory.

    you can get a ceramic 12v heater fan that will fit into the box with the heater matrix in it and IMHO its worth putting one in.
    Dave

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    Not expensive or difficult to replace the matrix. Unless you can use the space under the hood, just fix it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by manic View Post
    Not expensive or difficult to replace the matrix. Unless you can use the space under the hood, just fix it.
    on that modding the heater box and putting the electric heater matrix in while it will produce very little heat for inside the cab (but enough to pass for demisting purposes) it should free up enough space for a heat exchanger for doing a glind type shower.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  8. #8
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    Yeah cheers guys, pretty much what I had planned really, plumb the lines for recirculation. The roof mounted AC with heat and air as done by guys on this forum seems to provide ample demisting.

    Rego is no issue, I have a nsw heavy rigid license and a Queensland registered car, pretty common this close to the border. Besides if I did register it now even, my buddy is the pink slip guy. He has a patrol with 4" lift, no egr, and 35" wheels... And a whole list of other RTA sins

    Be a bit of a laugh if he gave me a hard time

    He also disposes of all my sump and diff oil too... Must remember to get him a Xmas card this year

  9. #9
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    The heater matrix on my td5 110 started to leak . I disconnected the two heater hoses and put two bits of dowel one in each and hose clamps , until I replaced the matrix . I can't see any reason why you can't take the heater out . The heater does not have anything to do with your engine cooling . The Radiator and fan look after that . You could loop the hoses , that's been getting done for the last 100 years on vehicles . I don't know about the road worthy side of de misting your windscreen . It was never a problem on any of the older series Land Rovers I've owned , I just used a bit of rag . Jim

  10. #10
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    As others have said, you need to be able to demist.
    Once I used a 12v Hair dryer mounted up under the dash of my Datto 1200 ute, plumbed into the windscreen duct, and hooked it up to a switch. It passed, and was super effective (but melted things if left on too long).

    I wonder if you could use demister elements on a windscreen, like the back window?

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