What are the symptoms of a worn Steering Idler Box?

[jedwards]

I have read much about rebuilding steering idler Boxes and the considerable trouble involved in getting them in and out of the chassis, however I cannot find any reference to what the symptoms of a worn Steering Idler Box are.

It appears (to me anyway) that the Idler serves solely to dampen steering backlash, and when it wears it introudced sideways movement of the idler shaft itself, which manifests as sloppiness in the steering. Looking at the geometry, it occurs to me that the Idler is actually of no benefit in smooth road use at all, and actually contributes to poor steering, not better steering. On rough rocky tracks, the Idler makes sense as it reduces backlash but for normal day to day use on smooth suburban roads, it does nothing other than to create a problem.

Is this correct or I am completely misinterpreting the function and purpose of the idler.

thanks
Jeff
1953 Land Rover Series 1 80"
LR1.jpeg

[123rover50]

Basically correct. Its there to change the fore and aft direction of the steering box to the left and right of the front wheels and provide damping as well.

[gromit]

As 123rover50 states, it changes the direction and provides damping, it also transfers the movement from above the chassis to below so both direction & height are changed. Of course the steering layout could have been modified at the design stage but it's worked well for all those years with, in most cases, no maintenance.

Symptoms are stiffness when it's full of water/rust rather than oil, when it wears the spring keeps the Tufnol bushes pressed hard against the taper on the shaft so it shouldn't get sloppy unless the idler is full of rust or the spring has broken. Beware of aftermarket replacements as there have been cases of the shaft breaking.

Getting them out of the chassis can be a problem but I've been lucky with 4 or 5 now, no brute force, no damage and all have been overhauled. Changing seals in situ is straightforward and they can be taken apart in the chassis if it doesn't want to come out but you only really need to take it apart if it's had water in it.

1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)


Colin

[JDNSW]

Can't add much to that - the prime purpose of the relay is to change the motion from one direction to right angles and move the plane of motion down about eight inches.

It also provides damping. The first relays only had a friction bush at the top, but these were replaced about the beginning of 1949 with one essentially identical to the ones used to the end of Series production, to deal with problems of wheel shimmy (not kickback offroad).