Hi All,
Looking for advice, or support or maybe, just sympathy!
My rear left tyre is wearing at and alarming rate. It'll need replacing very soon, as the outside is scrubbed. The other three are wearing evenly and are maybe at half life only.
I do need to replace the sway bar bushes as I'm sure they're shot, but is there a common issue with just that side?
There is a noticeable clunk when going over potholes and speed humps etc, but it's both sides hence sway bar IMHO.
Could the alignment be out on just that side?
To make it more annoying, the rubber is 265/60 but the spare is 255/60 so don't like having it on for a long time.
Any advice appreciated.
RalphDSC_0213.jpgDSC_0214.jpgDSC_0215.jpgDSC_0216.jpg
 TopicToaster
					
					
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberAssuming there is no suspension wear at play...
Do you have a lot of roundabouts in your usual area of driving?
We would wear the LHR of the D2 quicker than all the others also, until we moved to a different city and had less roundabouts...
Serious!
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Another factor that will cause weird tyre wear is if the air suspension calibration is out of whack. My D3 experienced rapid wear on 2 trips towing a camper trailer. The left rear tyre went bald on the inner edge.
When I checked the height calibration it was obvious to me that the left rear air strut was holding up the rear of the car and the right air strut wasnt doing a great deal, which also explained some pretty funky handling behaviour.
It might not be the cause in your case but it was with mine.
I've actually considered this as I fiddled with both the calibration and height over the last 6 weeks. That said, I've measured it and it is pretty close to the mark I reckon, 466 front and 485 rear.
That said, I'd actually like to 'reset' both the calibration and ride height as I have no idea if it's right other than the measurements. Eg, I could have the calibration -10 and th ride height +10 and no way of telling etc.
But, true to form, I can't find a reset process I like. I do have a IID GAP Tool so .....
Cheers
Ralph
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						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						ok, as you have acknowledged, the measured height is no indication of the calibration.
You can view the calibration settings in the GAP IID Tool, and they should be closely matched across each axle, but not front to rear. I will try and find a previous post that I did, it explains it better.
edit: here tis
Nanocom evo - height calibration
Thanks vee8auto, I'll have a poke around and give it a crack.
FWIW, here's a screenshot of my current values, yes, there is a big variation across the rear.
Car is parked on a bit of a sideslope and I was not in it.Screenshot (29 Dec 2017 10_28_54).jpg
Cheers
Ralph
I had the same problem following a bad wheel alignment after hitting the rear left against a round about kerb. Asked dealer to check for damage out of caution (there was none) and his local wheel alignment source did the alignment. Following this the car pulled slightly to the left and the rear left tyre scrubbed the outside edge. Took it to an indy LR specialist and he found that the rear was out to blazes. Now runs straight as a die and no more unusual wear issue. So your problem may be simply alignment. Then again it may not. The joys of owning a car.
Martin
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						The 'Calibration Value' is the fudge factor that i referred to in the other thread. Mine was the same, it appears that someone cranked up one side, so that side is doing all the work. There are a number of other variables but for now just pay attention to the procedure I detailed, and dont delete any steps.
But the 'seat of the pants' test is the speed hump test (in the other thread ) and if one side wallows down, in your case the right rear, then it would confirm that the left strut is doing all the work, hence tyre wear.
Anyway, you have your 'as found' figures so if you get lost in the process just put those calibration constants back in and have a rethink, or start again.
But as Tombie mentioned, lotsa round-abouts are another factor, but from your as-found calibration constants I reckon this now needs a better look at as well.
 TopicToaster
					
					
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberWell you know I’d not considered that one side might be propping the other but now looking at the values that I have from the last guided calibration, that might be my issue too. I’ll do as you say and reset them all to 190 odd, then take it for a drive to settle it, then run through a guided calibration and see what it comes up with.

2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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