130 Alloy vs steel full length rack

[Fubar]

Hey guys,

I'm looking at crafting up a full length alloy rack for the 130. This is a question for the DIY/expert alloy welders.

Sizing approx 3.6m x 1.3m with 30mm upper/lower side tubes, 30x3mm cross bars every 500 and a 7mm diamond grill mesh floor. I'm keen on having a floor you can walk on so you can get up onthe roof to lash loads or sleep up there in good weather.

It will be mounted on a hard shell canopy (steel frame) at the rear and external bars (ala Safety Devices cage) at the front. It doesn't need to take a lot of weight, just the usual assortment of swags, Oz-tent and firewood from time to time. I'll only have the top rail on each side & rear, no top bar at the front.

I'd settled on this after looking into what was available locally. The Hannibal rack seems good, but starts at $1600 for a bare, raw rack and they are just converting to building them in Australia. The Australian distributor commented on a lack of consistent supply and build quality as the reason for local construction. I got the impression if I bought one it would be the first one they build….I’m slightly hesitant about that. I have also considered buying 2.2m and 1.3m wagon racks to make up the coverage, but it would look a bit Heath Robinson.

I was happily trundling down this path till I read some advice in an overlanding book that recommended staying away from welded alloy racks and sticking to steel structures for long term use. I don't intend to load mine up like some of the trans-African Defender pack mules you see, but it made me think of longevity (15-10 years plus) considering the length of the rack and 'over the counter' alloys that would be used. I had planned to get a competent TIG welder (BIL mining fitter/welder) to glue it together as TIG welding alloy is not in my wheelhouse.

If I did it in steel I’d probably go for a 30mmx2mm single outer pipe (flat rack) with a Wisa deck floor….though there is a good deal more weight in it which is less than ideal (calculated 33kg vs 51kg).

Anyone have some long term alloy rack experience to share on this subject?

Cheers,
Jason

Picture of hannibal rack for reference - Not my truck!

[weeds]

I had a wind cheetah / front runner for many years, served me well, never had any issues.

I’d buy another one if I could find a buyer willing to shell out enough dollars for the rack fitted to my current defer

[MLD]

The likes of Rhino rack (pioneer platform) use rivets. Not sexy but there is an inherent flex in the design. The hannibal and others that have the slats east/west can be prone to excess wind noise without a deflector. the Rhino pioneer platform runs the slats north/south and are not as noisey. Another thing is the mounting points. There will be flex in the 130 front (cabin) to rear (canopy) and having it too strapped down will transfer the energy into the rack. Hannibal get around it by the distance between the rear mount and the front mount.

[juddy]

Hannibal rack planks run north to south, as do Patriot ones. The 130 DC and 110 HCPU are the only vehicles that I have seen with a rack that is fitted both to cab and body, this is possible due to the flex in both parts.

I have run both 130 HCPU and 110 HCPU alloy racks, never had any issues either. Alloy would be the way to go.

[daxy]

I have a 3.5m hannibal rack on my 130
Clamps to the cab rails and tapped/bolted into the tub, and U bolted to the rear bumper rungs...
I have a permanent 90kg RTT (Hannibal) on the back with a canvas awning hanging off the side
Never had a problem with the alloy - even backed into a tree branch which hit the top rear rail!
No bends in the rail but the whole rack shifted forwards a few inches and the ladder stopped one of the rear doors opening.....
Also bent my RTT a bit!
Hammered back in place (rack and tent!) - no probs!
I (85kg) regularly walk on the rack with no issues.
No issues with noise

I'd definitely do it again - light and strong - looks the goods as well

Cheers
Mike