 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi all,
reversing up my driveway that has a 7-10 degree slope so was going uphill in reverse. Car moved back as normal for about 3 feet and than stopped as if I needed more revs to keep the momentum going but as I pushed in the accelerator the engine revs didn’t increase at all. Car just sat there. I pushed the accelerator in about half way and the engine just didn’t respond with the car standing still.
Looking at the rear window I noticed a reasonable amount of whitish smoke. I tried again and the car eventually got up to the top after 3 attempts but again minimal revs and just crawled up. It didnt feel like anything was slipping between engine and gearbox but that’s an assumption.Once in forward gear the car felt better and then a couple of minutes later hard acceleration and gear changes were normal.
Got home and stopped at the steepest part of my driveway and reversed up backwards uphill and the car reversed fine. WTF is going on?
gear box oil change at 80K km’s and there were no warnings or messages on the dash, 2.7L MY2011
Anyone have a similar experience or have any input would be greatly appreciated. Better sell a kidney, this is sounding expensive
Cheers
Mike
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberBefore: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						It could be due to a faulty brake light switch.
Edit - I'm too slow!
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberOk. For those who say brake light switch - when I was doing some work on the car, I pressed the brake and accelerator to try and stall up the engine on the box. It didn’t work and nothing happened if I remember correctly - the car knew I was pressing the brake. Of note though, I logged into the IID and received a logged alert/fault for something along the lines of “Accelerator and Brake simultaneously activated.“
So one would say if the brake light switch is an issue (and staying on) then this fault should be logged.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						The brake light switch has 2 sets of contacts. My experience is that if 1 set is burnt making poor contact then mixed signals can be received,
whereupon the engine produces very little power.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Ok, after reading what you guys have said about brake lights I’ve had a look and the leftt brake light lens cover is cracked just above the indicator which has caused the entire brake light “chamber” to fill with water. I could only just make it out as the whole area was filled with water so no demarcation line. Never noticed the cracked lens
the brake lamp is literally under water so Ill empty it out and dry and see what happens. I’m assuming this might have something to do with my issue?
Thanks for your responses, I’ll let you know what happens.
Mike
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberBefore: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
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