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Thread: Only replace Timing belt but not Fuel belt? - Thoughts

  1. #1
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    Only replace Timing belt but not Fuel belt? - Thoughts

    With my 2014 D4 I'm sitting at about 145,000 and just clicked over 6 years. Planning on getting belts done early in new year. At my last service 6 weeks back with my Indie (when I got all fluids replaced as well), I raised about the timing belt service with him for next year.

    He suggested that in his opinion the rear fuel belt may not need to be done. He was quite adamant that the front timing belt MUST be done. He said, the obvious that if the timing belt goes then your engine is cactus. However, if the fuel pump belt goes all that happens is you just stop and need to get towed to get it replaced. He said he has replaced a few rear belts and apart from the difficulty of doing the job (with the extra cost) he said that every rear belt that he has pulled out has been near perfect and if it was his vehicle he'd just do the front timing belt and not worry about the rear belt. Easy for him I suppose.

    What are others thoughts on this. I'm leaning towards getting the lot done but seeing as I'm out of warranty now anyway, it obviously makes sense to do the timing belt but is doing the rear belt money for nothing. Have any others done this?

    Thanks
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
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  2. #2
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    Without a doubt, when the fuel belt does fail, it will be at the most inconvenient time possible. Middle of a beach, or when relatives visit, or when towing a hire trailer etc.

    I’d just get it done, and drive on fear free :-)
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  3. #3
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    Just do both. Also, the 3.0 fuel pumps are timed, so if It breaks then it adds more time and mucking about to set engine at TDC and then lock the fuel pump at its corresponding mark etc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
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  4. #4
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    Get both done - yes the back is a pain and I think your just wants to get out of it if he can.
    REMLR 243

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  5. #5
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    Definitely do both, no point not doing it, fuel pump belt has does the same time, revs and work as the timing belt. A fair bit of gear has to come off to do front belt, same for rear fp belt .

    Also, get them to replace the front main seal (with genuine), they are there anyway and its a pita to do it later. Seal is maybe 30 bucks, even if its a 100, it will cost you a grand in labour to do it later as the same has to come off again anyway.

  6. #6
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    I'll throw another vote to change it. I've done the belts in my D3 twice now, both times the HPFP belt is significantly harder than the timing belt. My theory here is that the exhaust cross over pipe is directly below the HPFP belt so it suffers a bit more heat degradation than the main timing belt
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  7. #7
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    I considered the same when doing the wife's D4 earlier this year. From what I've read the rear timing belt can make a mess if it fails (e.g. damage the casing etc). Having done the job it's horrible to access and if you had to replace other parts there due to a failure and damage caused you'd be hating life - the additional labour and time then would likely cost you far more than you'd have ever saved, plus add in the inconvenience of when it fails, car being towed costs, etc.

    Having done the job myself, it's not a huge amount more work to access. The hardest thing I found was getting the cover plate out from behind there (the trick is just got to be a bit rougher with it).

    I'd consider what this advise is an indicator of in relation to your chosen mechanic...

  8. #8
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    *I throw it out to the customer, if they want me to do the rear belt, then all fine.
    *If they want to do it on the cheap, I'm fine with that too, I've seen one old 2.7 that broke a rear belt, no damage, it doesnt fly round smashing everything, it just runs out of fuel.
    *The 3.0lt aint rocket science to time if it does go out.
    *If I have the body off doing some other job, I will change the belt out at the same time, related to current repair or not.


    *If it was so tragic and important why does the Discovery (5?) 3.0lt make no mention of a change interval for that belt.
    Regards
    Daz


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    *If it was so tragic and important why does the Discovery (5?) 3.0lt make no mention of a change interval for that belt.
    Probably because it will be well out warranty when it does break...
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
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  10. #10
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    Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 If I have the body off doing some other job, I will change the belt out at the same time, related to current repair or not.


    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    Probably because it will be well out warranty when it does break...

    Yeah, and Dazza deals with many out of warranty cars, and it's his sensible approach like this that wins him so many satisfied customers.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
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    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

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