Electric Window Low Voltage

[Rohaan]

The right rear window has been playing up recently and has decided to kill itself half wound down which is convinient for anyone who wants to break in.
This has happened once before and I isolated the issue to two worn parts of the cable which rubbed down and was possibly shorting.
Once this was tapped up it seemed to work again perfectly.

Fast forward a few weeks later and here we are again.
I decided to cut, solder and heat shrink the same issue cable areas although still no go.

I've checked all switches by testing operation of the left window (which works) and 12V is getting to the switch plugs.

I've found only 2V is coming through when the switch is engaged (either up or down) at the window regulator (is this the correct name for where the cables go into the motor?).
The left window is reading 8-10V when operating.

Do I have a dead window winding motor?

Cheers,

Rohaan

[biggin]

Are you aware that the switch sends a signal to the body control unit (computer) to then open or close the window. In other words, they are on two completely separate circuits.
Download RAVE and look at the electrical drawings.

[Rohaan]

Are you aware that the switch sends a signal to the body control unit (computer) to then open or close the window. In other words, they are on two completely separate circuits.
Download RAVE and look at the electrical drawings.

Am I looking at the right thing? Corrent me if I'm wrong but the rear windows appear to go through a shared fuse box and then out to their independant switches.
I've outlined in the attachment where I (think) am reading the 2V.

[Rohaan]

The front definately looks like it goes through a control unit which confirms why I heard a clicking noise behind passenger glovebox when operating front windows but not rear.

[biggin]

No, you’re right. Should have checked RAVE myself.
To answer your question, likely not a motor issue. Looks like a bad earth to me.

[sierrafery]

Was that 2V with motor connected?, If yes measure in the unplugged connector and if then you have good voltage it's possible that somethig is stuck which makes the BCU to cut the feed exactly like when the window is completely closed or open

[Rohaan]

So I've fiddled with the connectors and somehow the window started working again .... I think I'll just never roll it down again in fear of it not coming back up.

Motor runs perfectly (better than the other windows) so must be a bad connection.
Unsure if this explains the 2V reading or not.

Thanks again for the troubleshooting questions/help!