Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Wheel Studs - do I need longer ones for alloys?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,838
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Wheel Studs - do I need longer ones for alloys?

    I'm converting my single axle electric brakes runabout trailer from Toyo 6 studs to Defender/D1/RRC 5 studs and fitting matching LR alloys.

    I'm confused yet again - do I need the 60 mm studs (M16.5 x 1.5), or are the 45 mm long ones fine? From my measurements, it looks like the 45s will work (15mm thick drums, so about 30mm of thread), but might take a bit more effort to get the nuts started and biting into the stud threads?

    I also guess also not all studs are equal, and on occasion I tow up to 2 tonnes, so want good'uns

    Could do with some knowledgeable assistance pretty please.

    Cheers
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
    Posts
    7,545
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Gavin. I don’t have the data at hand, it’s thread engagement that’s important.
    Once you know that, you can make your decision.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,838
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Gavin. I don’t have the data at hand, it’s thread engagement that’s important.
    Once you know that, you can make your decision.

    Thanks Mike.
    The way I measured, the first alloy nut initially just engages without centreing into the rim hole, and once started and centred, thereafter each nut engages and all tighten with about 25mm thread engagement.
    I suspect if I were to use the 65mm versions, I could not fully tighten before the thread hit the end cap, but I'll go back and double check when I get the chance.

    I did read somewhere that the differing "2 stage" design of the alloy nuts overcame the need for longer studs.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!