Go for it. I do the guided calibration and get great results within a mm or two, though it would have been better to have done it BEFORE the alignment for the best alignment accuracy.
Nothing will be hurt doing it. I’ve done it a few times.
Hi, I'm new to Discovery 4 ownership. I have a Gap IIDTool and am comfortable using it. I just fitted new wheels/tyres and Edgars Tyrepower did a full alignment - Martin there knows about TTM and the car now drives straight with one finger steering.
I'm a little concerned that the ride height is above spec. I went through the EAS Calibration as per the IIDTool manual, using the "left hand side adjust to match the right" formula, but I did not write any changes, as the 'new' calibration was within 3mm of the old. All good so far. However my carefully measured heights are F: 481, 479, R: 495, 506. These are all well above the standard height of F: 466, R: 485. And also above the maximum tolerance for standard height (I got these values from the alignment system that Martin uses): F: 477, R: 495.
My first thought is that 'rods' had been fitted, but the height sensors look totally stock. So I suspect someone has pushed the calibration values to 'force' a slightly higher height. The current calibration values are F: 203, 201, R: 187, 184.
As a new owner, I'd like to get everything back to a standard baseline, and then adjust heights as needed (for off-road) using the IID height offset settings.
So I'm considering using the 'Guided Calibration' method as per the IIDTool manual, which sets the calibration values based on the measured height being set to the standard height of F:466, R: 495. My question is: should I? Is there any potential risk in doing so? Thanks for your experience and guidance!
Discovery D4 (L319) 2014; Tuffant Steel Mk1, Maxxis AT811 265/65, APT compressor guard/sliders/transmission-guard, ARB Summit BBar, X76 UHF, Autosafe barrier, Rijidij carrier, Longranger 74l aux tank, Darche Streamliner 1250 RTT.
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberGo for it. I do the guided calibration and get great results within a mm or two, though it would have been better to have done it BEFORE the alignment for the best alignment accuracy.
Nothing will be hurt doing it. I’ve done it a few times.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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						Master
					
					
						2012 L320 Range Rover Sport Fuji White
REMLR 012
No 5 Trailer ARN 177-295
2006 Disco 3, 4L V6 Petrol SE Deceased Feb 26 2023
SOLD Engineers Trailer - no id
SOLD RAAF 231194 Perentie 110 GS - SIR ANGUS
SOLD 4MP COY Series 3 FFR 30-209
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						Master
					
					
						SubscriberThanks for the replies!Easy process, especially if you mark the centre of the wheel and the edge of the guard directly above that centre point (masking tape and a pen, spirit level). As I expected it was all too high. For info, here are my before and after calibration settings. After doing this I was able to go into off-road height and then add a further 30mm without any complaints from the system - my goodness its high! I did not try to move it at that height.

IMG_2797.jpgIMG_2816.jpg
Discovery D4 (L319) 2014; Tuffant Steel Mk1, Maxxis AT811 265/65, APT compressor guard/sliders/transmission-guard, ARB Summit BBar, X76 UHF, Autosafe barrier, Rijidij carrier, Longranger 74l aux tank, Darche Streamliner 1250 RTT.
D3 - 466mm front and 485mm for rear correct measurements?
I'm getting rear upper and lower arms plus hub bushes replaced this week and want to calibrate height before it goes in for wheel alignment.
Cheers Peter
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						Master
					
					
						Subscriberall sorted, rear end has nice new arms and hub bushes, did the height calibration. Interestingly it did not wat to work with guided mode at first, started using manual then went back to guided and it worked. Wheel align done front and rear and it drives very nicely again.
Next jobs for me to do are transmission flush and filter
EGR blank and SW patch.
clean out the inlet Y & remove butterfly
Flush and new fluid for the power steering.
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