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Thread: Puma driving me crazy

  1. #1
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    Puma driving me crazy

    I have an ongoing g drama with wobble steering around the 80 km mark.
    i have replaced everything, I.e., bearings, bushes, tyres…….
    the preload was fine for a few weeks but now it’s light again. I have new bearings top and bottom, and new pins. The only way that I could get a reasonable preload on this car was to remove ALL the shims on both sides, but this no longer seems to assert enough pressure to effect preload anywhere near required.
    can anyone suggest a remedy to solve the preload deficiency?
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
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    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  2. #2
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    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    Have you checked steering toe-out, not toe-in?

    From RAVE:

    Toe-out measurement ................. 0 to 2 mm toe out
    Toe-out included angle ................ 0 to 020’
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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    Don't discount drive shaft wear or out of balance.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  4. #4
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    a failed or faulty (worn out) steering damper.

    after that, you said "bushes" do you mean locating diff arm bushes? which can be more prone to wear or rather the wear becomes more noticeable with bigger than std tyres, as in 285 etc etc.

    Also how many km's has your Defender done?
    I wouldnt expect all the bearings and related parts you have changed to be worn out of reasonable spec unless its done either hard offroad km's or is pushing 300K or more.
    Regards
    Daz


  5. #5
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    if not already replaced, panhard bushes can induce a wobble around that speed.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies.
    What I’m saying, is that there is nothing left to reduce as I’m down to zero shims when measuring the preload. I’m wondering now if the crap pins that came with the new top ball bearings are slightly smaller in diameter than the originals. I’ll have to see if I kept the originals. I may have turfed them as they were cut up by the collapsed bearing race. Wouldn’t be the first time that after market parts are not to original spec.
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  7. #7
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    I’ve been down to zero shims on a few disco1/realdefenders
    And it has taught me one thing

    The shimmies at 80kmh is almost never one silver bullet

    Shagged rear arm bushes
    Pamhars that seems good but isn’t
    Rear a-frame
    Steering damper bushes

    Point being - if your down to zeros on the swivel pre-load

    Time to start looking elsewhere


    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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