Have you checked steering toe-out, not toe-in?
From RAVE:
Toe-out measurement ................. 0 to 2 mm toe out
Toe-out included angle ................ 0 to 020’
I have an ongoing g drama with wobble steering around the 80 km mark.
i have replaced everything, I.e., bearings, bushes, tyres…….
the preload was fine for a few weeks but now it’s light again. I have new bearings top and bottom, and new pins. The only way that I could get a reasonable preload on this car was to remove ALL the shims on both sides, but this no longer seems to assert enough pressure to effect preload anywhere near required.
can anyone suggest a remedy to solve the preload deficiency?
Mustlust
1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
1956 Series 1 86in
1956 Series 1 107
1957 Series 1 88in
1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
2011 Discovery 4 3.0
2009 110 utility 2.4tdci
Have you checked steering toe-out, not toe-in?
From RAVE:
Toe-out measurement ................. 0 to 2 mm toe out
Toe-out included angle ................ 0 to 020’
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Don't discount drive shaft wear or out of balance.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
a failed or faulty (worn out) steering damper.
after that, you said "bushes" do you mean locating diff arm bushes? which can be more prone to wear or rather the wear becomes more noticeable with bigger than std tyres, as in 285 etc etc.
Also how many km's has your Defender done?
I wouldnt expect all the bearings and related parts you have changed to be worn out of reasonable spec unless its done either hard offroad km's or is pushing 300K or more.
Regards
Daz
if not already replaced, panhard bushes can induce a wobble around that speed.
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
Thanks for the replies.
What I’m saying, is that there is nothing left to reduce as I’m down to zero shims when measuring the preload. I’m wondering now if the crap pins that came with the new top ball bearings are slightly smaller in diameter than the originals. I’ll have to see if I kept the originals. I may have turfed them as they were cut up by the collapsed bearing race. Wouldn’t be the first time that after market parts are not to original spec.
Mustlust
1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
1956 Series 1 86in
1956 Series 1 107
1957 Series 1 88in
1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
2011 Discovery 4 3.0
2009 110 utility 2.4tdci
I’ve been down to zero shims on a few disco1/realdefenders
And it has taught me one thing
The shimmies at 80kmh is almost never one silver bullet
Shagged rear arm bushes
Pamhars that seems good but isn’t
Rear a-frame
Steering damper bushes
Point being - if your down to zeros on the swivel pre-load
Time to start looking elsewhere
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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