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Thread: series 3 diff lock

  1. #1
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    series 3 diff lock

    hello,
    i have a series3/stage 1 LWB land rover with a rebuild 3.5 twin carbie.
    running a 4 speed thats loves to rev on the highway.

    anyway i am curious to know how the diff lock works, i understand that is locks the gear box or something

    So does it actually lock all 4 wheels like an air locker would or not????

    if some one could explain to me how it works, i would be in your debt.

    many thanks
    dan

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by peanut84 View Post
    hello,
    i have a series3/stage 1 LWB land rover with a rebuild 3.5 twin carbie.
    running a 4 speed thats loves to rev on the highway.

    anyway i am curious to know how the diff lock works, i understand that is locks the gear box or something

    So does it actually lock all 4 wheels like an air locker would or not????

    if some one could explain to me how it works, i would be in your debt.

    many thanks
    dan
    Like the Rangerover and the 90/110 and the Discovery 1 & 2 and Defender, the Stage 1 does not have selectable four wheel drive, but has full time four wheel drive with a third or centre differential to allow front and rear axles to rotate at different speeds, for example when turning. The drawback to this is that if one wheel loses grip, then all drive is lost, so a lock is provided for this third differential. When this is locked the situation is identical to that of a vehicle with selectable four wheel drive with four wheel drive selected.

    No, it does not do the same as an air locker, you use it just the same as you would four wheel drive in a selectable four wheel drive vehicle, although it is often considered a good idea to lock the centre diff on corrugated gravel to prevent repeated impact loads on the centre diff as wheels lose grip.

    This LT95 combined gearbox/transfer case was used on early Rangerovers, the FC101 and early 110s (and probably 90s, although they were never imported here). It appears to have been primarily developed for the FC101 gun tractor, and as a result is generally considered to be the most rugged and trouble free of the modern Landrover gearboxes, although it only has four gears. Despite this the Australian Army ones are further upgraded to allow them to cope better with military conditions (e.g. drivers).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    hi JDNSW

    thank for the info, I was looking at getting arb air lockers but thought i should really try and understand my diff lock first as it might be all that i need.

    my landy is pretty much a beach 4x4 although i have been up to fraser once in it (cause i haven't had it long) and even then i didn get to test it out in the powder or inland tracks (you know the fun parts) cause i did a wheel bearing just up past eurong.

    How well does diff lock work in the sand????
    if i just get diff lock checked out and make sure everything is working properly, i should be able to get up some fun little tracks here and there?????

    cheers
    dan

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by peanut84 View Post
    hi JDNSW

    thank for the info, I was looking at getting arb air lockers but thought i should really try and understand my diff lock first as it might be all that i need.

    my landy is pretty much a beach 4x4 although i have been up to fraser once in it (cause i haven't had it long) and even then i didn get to test it out in the powder or inland tracks (you know the fun parts) cause i did a wheel bearing just up past eurong.

    How well does diff lock work in the sand????
    if i just get diff lock checked out and make sure everything is working properly, i should be able to get up some fun little tracks here and there?????

    cheers
    dan
    Diff lock will make little difference in sand since all wheels tend to have about the same grip - sand driving is about 50% tyre pressure and 40% driving technique and 10% everything else, including whether you have four wheel drive (well, maybe a slight exaggeration, but not much).

    John
    (who lived in the Simpson for nearly two years)
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    G'day Peanut84

    I would suggest that you get to know the Centre Diff Lock and it's capabilities, before thinking about ARB's, as unlessyou are going into serious hard core offroading, the centre diff lock will do most jobs, you can check out the diff lock yourself by first engageing it , then with the vehicle switched off, and in gear, jack up one wheel, you should not be able to turn this wheel much, free play only, Then lower, restart disengage diff lock, stop, jack up, and you should be able to spin that wheel without problems, that test can be done on any FLAT Drivway or Servo driveway, there should be an indicator light come on when Diff Lock is engaged


    G'day JDNSW The LT 95 was designed for the Range Rover in about 1968, for the 1970 release if it

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by UncleHo View Post


    G'day JDNSW The LT 95 was designed for the Range Rover in about 1968, for the 1970 release if it
    The 101 started development in 1967 and proceeded in parallel with the Rangerover. The LT95 was designed to meet the requirements of both vehicles - as the company could not afford to to develop two gearboxes. In particular the design of the transfer case was influenced by the need to provide for a powered trailer required in the military vehicle specification. Your date for the design of 1968 would have been pretty right. Although the Rangerover was released first, the engine/gearbox was designed from the outset to meet both needs. Rover almost certainly did not have the resources to do the non-common tooling at the same time, and this may explain the longer development - or it amy have been explained by a long period of trials and acceptance, which were much shorter with the Rangerover, since it only had to satisfy the company, not the army! And the Rangerover , a completely new type of vehicle, was launched with no market research and no real idea who would buy it.

    The first vehicle prototype that was recognisably a Rangerover was the '100" Station Wagon' of 1967, but this still had the 3 litre six and conventional Series transmission.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    yello,

    i just ran some test with the landy and this is my findings:

    TEST 1
    rear right wheel jacked up, front right wheel jacked up.
    start engine and select 1st gear, low range (so if it jumped of the jacks there is no high speed launching ha ha ha)
    release clutch and rear wheel spins only, but if u hold the rear wheel to a stop, power is transfured to front wheel and it starts spinning.

    TEST2
    same wheels jacked up, 1st gear, low range with diff lock ON
    release clutch and front and rear wheels spinning, try to grab rear wheel, wont stop, try to grab front wheel, wont stop. (not being able to stop the wheels i assume is a good thing as this shows that diff lock is working) complete drive BUT with a lot of slack in the drive train.


    What are your thoughts????

    dan
    Last edited by peanut84; 14th February 2007 at 01:53 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by peanut84 View Post
    yello,

    i just ran some test with the landy and this is my findings:

    TEST 1
    rear right wheel jacked up, front right wheel jacked up.
    start engine and select 1st gear, low range (so if it jumped of the jacks there is no high speed launching ha ha ha)
    release clutch and rear wheel spins only, but if u hold the rear wheel to a stop, power is transfured to front wheel and it starts spinning.

    TEST2
    same wheels jacked up, 1st gear, low range with diff lock ON
    release clutch and front and rear wheels spinning, try to grab rear wheel, wont stop, try to grab front wheel, wont stop. (not being able to stop the complete drive BUT with a lot of slack in the drive train.


    What are your thoughts????

    dan
    Sounds like its working properly - a somewhat simpler and safer test:- jack up as above, engine stopped, gearbox in neutral. Turn front or back wheel, turns freely, other wheel stays put. Run engine to provide vacuum and engage diff lock, turn front or rear wheel - the other one will turn at the same speed.

    The slack you see is probably the accumulation of a lot of little bits of slack - side play in the two diff centres, slack on splines at both ends of each axle shaft, output of transfer case etc. No real problem, unless there is slack in any of the prop shaft U-joints - this can lead to an out of balance situation and sudden failure, which you definitely do NOT want to happen if you are travelling fast.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    HMMMMMM

    TEST3
    diff lock on, in netural, motor off, turn front wheel and rear spins.
    ok i know diff lock is now working. good good

    Now i am a little worried about this SLACK i just measured the slack by turing the rear wheel till it took up the slack, then marked the tyre with chalk and the guard as a referance point then turned the wheel the oppsite way untill slack was taken up again, marked the tyre with chalk and then measured the distance from the 1st mark to the 2nd

    AND.................


    it was 25cms
    i think that is a lot of play

    dan

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by peanut84 View Post
    HMMMMMM

    TEST3
    diff lock on, in netural, motor off, turn front wheel and rear spins.
    ok i know diff lock is now working. good good

    Now i am a little worried about this SLACK i just measured the slack by turing the rear wheel till it took up the slack, then marked the tyre with chalk and the guard as a referance point then turned the wheel the oppsite way untill slack was taken up again, marked the tyre with chalk and then measured the distance from the 1st mark to the 2nd

    AND.................


    it was 25cms
    i think that is a lot of play

    dan
    As I said - the amount of play is not really what matters, but where it is. You can work out where it is - hand brake on - repeat your test above for front and rear wheels separately. This will show up play in the centre diff if you repeat the front one in gear with diff lock disengaged.

    Now turn the wheel slowly as before, but watch for the prop shaft to start moving. This will show you the free play in the diff on that axle plus the axle splines - and removing the hub cap will enable you to see the movement on the spline there.

    But to repeat, the problem you need to look for is play on the U-joints on the prop shafts, although having the drive flanges loose on either the diffs or the transfer case is not good either. I would expect though, that the majority of the free play is on the various splines and in the diff centres, and is nothing to worry about. from the handbrake to the rear wheel there are effectively seven splines (remember the diff means you see the play form both sides), and only two of these are locked with nuts, and in the front there are nine, again, with only two locked, plus clearance on the diff lock dog. And any clearance on the gears in the diff centre shows up as free play as well.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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