Thread: series 3 diff lock

ok

HAND BRAKE ON:
rear has 5cms untill tailshaft moves
front has 5cms till tailshaft moves

rear complete left to right play is 5cms
front complete left to right play is 25cms

Originally Posted by peanut84

ok

HAND BRAKE ON:
rear has 5cms untill tailshaft moves
front has 5cms till tailshaft moves

rear complete left to right play is 5cms
front complete left to right play is 25cms

This sounds like most of the free play is in the centre diff - was this with the diff lock engaged or not? But check there was no lost motion from one end of the front prop shaft to the other.

Free play in the centre diff is probably mainly wear on the thrust washers, and is not a very big job to do, but is perhaps better left to someone with experience in these, although with the workshop manual anyone with reasonable workshop skills should be able to do it. But it is unlikely to be a symptom of impending failure, although it does increase the skill level needed for driving smoothly.

John

ok cool

so when the hand brake was on the front diff had 20cms more play then the rear because it was taking up the slack of the centre diff. but the rear didn cause the handbrake is on the rear on the gearbox and not allowing it to turn the center diff???

is this about rite????

Originally Posted by peanut84

ok cool

so when the hand brake was on the front diff had 20cms more play then the rear because it was taking up the slack of the centre diff. but the rear didn cause the handbrake is on the rear on the gearbox and not allowing it to turn the center diff???

is this about rite????

yep, you've got it.
John

hmmm think it will be expensive to fix the center diff plus fit lockers and need suspention and has rust blah blah blah

prob should just buy a defender diesel turbo

dan

Originally Posted by peanut84

hmmm think it will be expensive to fix the center diff plus fit lockers and need suspention and has rust blah blah blah

prob should just buy a defender diesel turbo

dan

It is unlikely that the centre diff is going to fail - replacing the thrust washers is cheap as far as parts go, and if you do it yourself it is not an enormous job - but of course, once you pull the front extension of the transfer case apart, you will, of course replace any seriously worn parts, all bearings and seals - and then it starts adding up, particularly since you don't know what you will find, and the labour costs would be significant .

I would think that the rust would be the most important fix, followed by any work needed on the suspension, then the centre diff. If you are thinking that you need to fit lockers, I suggest that you read relevant threads here first - some have suggested that they are something you hardly ever use, although this depends on the way you use your vehicle.

John

Make sure the diff lock warning light is working - it pays to check it regularly as the switch can play up. Reason is that if its not working, its easy to inadvertently leave the diff lock on which can cause a lot of damage to the drivetrain if driven on sealed roads.

Not engaging the diff lock when its required can also burn out thrust washers in the center diff - I think the best way is to engage it in the same situations when you would shift into 4WD on a part time 4WD.

hey mark

yeah the dash light works fine so no problen there.

BUT i went out to kholo bridge in ipswich, brisbane
and there is some little 4x4 tracks out there. i went out to test the diff lock out and i have an expensive sound coming from the front diff or some where up the front of the car, but only when its in diff lock and only when you turn left or right. and its a CLUNK CLUNK and the clunk gets faster as the landy gets faster.

any ideas??????

dan