Removing flywheel

[malsgoing130]

Hi All,
Please can some one advise me on a tip or trick in removing the flywheel from my 300tdi Fender, I need to replace the rear oil seal. Are there any tips or tricks in replacing this seal?? My Rave manual explains the use of a LR tool for the removal of the fly wheel to stop the motor from turning.
Thanks
Mal

[BigJon]

I used a big screwdriver between the ring gear and a dowel to do my V8 one.

[Blknight.aus]

remove the bolts with a rattle gun and some heat and you dont need the tool.

the screwdriver onto the ring gear usually works well as does making up a flat plate to bolt on in place of the clutch pressure plate.

[2stroke]

I just locked the flywheel with the tool I made to do the timing belt (a1/4bsp brass reducer tapped to 10mm with a 10mm grade 4 bolt screwed in to engage the flywheel naturally the end is ground down to fit the key in the flywheel). I used a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe extension (carefully) and kept a close eye on it to make sure it didn't deflect. I was told to put the seal on dry with silicon RTV behind the face. Edit I wouldn't recommend using a rattlegun with the flywheel locked in this manner.

[rick130]

Second Dave's rattle gun.
I have one, but a neighbour has a better one, an electric Makita one that's rated at some ridiculous Nm's (3/4" drive)
It even struggled a little, but they came off.

BTW, there are specific instructions for the oil seal, you use the supplied tool/sleeve and install dry as 2stroke said with RTV silicon behind.

[malsgoing130]

Thanks for the info all.
My rattle gun is a piece of rubbish that would not take the vegemite off toast. I wedged a spanner up against a stud and put my breaker bar on with extention on and not even a budge, but the bar started to deflect a bit. Looks like I am going to have to hire an alectric rattle gun, just a bit scared of snapping the bolts off- any experience of this? 10 grade should be ok? if I get it off do the bolts need to be locktited back in? very frustrated right now need to get her back together.
thanks
Mal

[Blknight.aus]

usually when they snap they snap off at the head and once you've either broken all of them or got the rest out you can remove the wheel and then butcher the leftover bits out or drill them out.

they will take some budging as they will have rusttited themselves in place .

[rovercare]

usually when they snap they snap off at the head and once you've either broken all of them or got the rest out you can remove the wheel and then butcher the leftover bits out or drill them out.

they will take some budging as they will have rusttited themselves in place .

I usually end up welding a bolt to whats left of the thread, I have a sneaking suspicion its the heat from the decent weld that gets them loose, not the new bolt

[malsgoing130]

thanks for making me nervous, I might just live with the leaking seal

[rick130]

I usually end up welding a bolt to whats left of the thread, I have a sneaking suspicion its the heat from the decent weld that gets them loose, not the new bolt

Yep.
The trick used to be when using Unbrako's as flywheel bolts to use a really small tip in the oxy and heat the head till cherry, let cool, hit with a centre punch and they should come out.
The heat was to kill the loctite.