Series 1 should have a starter with a removable cover on the end of the shaft. This should see a square, which can be used to wind the starter out of mesh, which is most likely the problem (will not start the engine moving in many cases if the starter is not moving when load comes on to it). If the starter is a later one without this facility, the only alternative is to turn it with a crankhandle, but this may not be possible if the starter is in mesh, due to the gear ratio, particularly if things are a bit tight.
If the problem really is misalignment, which I doubt, then it will be due to damaged teeth on the flywheel (quite possible), damaged pinion teeth, or bent pinion shaft, or loose starter. There is no adjustment, just fix/replace the necessary bits. 
Other possibilities include the engine being seized or very stiff to turn for a whole variety of possible reasons, or the starter poling due to worn bushes, or the starter not working very well due to worn or sticking  brushes or dirty commutator.
But first of all, I would make sure that there is not a bad connection somewhere - check the actual voltage at the starter (between the starter terminal and the frame of the starter). This should drop to around eight volts when starting. If there is little drop, the starter has a problem, if the drop is very large (to 1v or less), there is a bad connection somewhere.
John
P.S. I assume when you say ignition clicks, you are actually operating the starter button?
John
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
				John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
			
			
		 
	
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