hmm, ok, so i need some help with these wheel bearings

[srowlandson]

ok, i re packed the grease etc in the front wheel bearings the other day, FWIW i have a 1964 LWB SIIA 4cyl Petrol Cab Chassis with my now finished Steel with wooden deck tray...

the fronts are fine, i think, i only really need to know the exact size of the lock nut for the axle to get the right socket to torque them correctly, hope someone knows as they are 'about right' hand tight at the moment.

rears, well different sorry. My rear complete axle + housing (front too for that matter) came from Slunnie from an unknown model, my guess would be SIII??

weird thing was the flange bolts were 15mm ? what year did landrover go metric ??? the break bleeder is also 10mm, weird ? or normal?


after loosening these, water trickled out, not a lot, followed by gear oil, grey gear oil

i've removed the flange / axle and it looks fine, then the hub and wheel bearings, the races have visible wear on the inner and outer edge, i might replace them and the axle lock nuts and retaining washers for piece of mind.

inspecting the wheel cylinder for the brakes, again i am no mechanic but my understanding a simple check is use a thin flat blade to open the wheel cylinder cup and if fluid leaks its bad as the wheel cylinder seals are shot, well, brown gunk came out, so i guess i am up for these, the drums were wet with diff oil, so my guess is the shoes are shot? so replace them. any other thoughts on replacing anything, surely some seal has gone somewhere for the wheel gearings to be wet with gear oil or are they the type of wheel bearing that run in gear oil not grease... my haynes manual says repack the grease ??

after the brakes and wheel bearings its shocks and tie rods then steering box... ready to get closer to road worthy... i might take some photos too whilst th rear end is in bits.
its a rover diff too FWIW.


Steve

[Blknight.aus]

52 mm for the hub bearing retaining nuts.

which technique are you using to tighten them up

Dti with a couple of thou for freeplay

torqued up lightly and then torque the outer to spec

by feel then test drive.

[srowlandson]

[srowlandson]

52 mm for the hub bearing retaining nuts.

which technique are you using to tighten them up

Dti with a couple of thou for freeplay

torqued up lightly and then torque the outer to spec

by feel then test drive.

manual says torque to 15 lbs, then spin, check after short drive its re torqued to 15lbs... then the second lock nut tightened. ?


Missed one photo:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

ok, i re packed the grease etc in the front wheel bearings the other day, ...

... Steve

Steve

Is there a reason why you are packing the wheel bearings with grease?

They are designed to be lubricated by oil from the swivel housing, or is that also packed with grease?

Diana

[srowlandson]

Steve

Is there a reason why you are packing the wheel bearings with grease?

They are designed to be lubricated by oil from the swivel housing, or is that also packed with grease?

Diana

hmm, it appears you are right? It was a (bad) assumption that i made that the wheel bearings must be greased ?

quite clearly, i need to just clean out the diff etc and replace all the fliuds / oil after replacing the bearings ?

Steve

[dullbird]

May I ask off topic

Did you do that tray yourself was it expensive.

ours has rotted out so was considering cutting out the bottom and welding in a new bottom then just getting it rhino lined..BUT i like what you have done

[srowlandson]

May I ask off topic

Did you do that tray yourself was it expensive.

ours has rotted out so was considering cutting out the bottom and welding in a new bottom then just getting it rhino lined..BUT i like what you have done

tray wasn't 'that' expensive... but...

I bought 8 lengths (i think) of 25mmx50mmx2.4

this made the 5 ribs, and the 'square' of the tray.

40x40RHS fort he headboard.

26mm tube for the rope rails with 50x3mm flat bar drop downs.

some 50mmx 5mm for gussets

100x6mm flat in the 4 corners to make chain down points. the 4 corners inside the tray of timber are removable to have a 38mm hole with 2 slots for locking chain down. I have 2 drag chains and 2 dogs for chaining stuff down. i ran some 25x25x3mm angle around the lift out panels to 'protect' the timber.


The timber are 136x36mm Spotten Gum. here i was lucky as a mate is a landscaper and 'gave' me enough for the tray as he had some left overs. i think its worth $200. I am yet to get some boards in 20mm thick forthe sides and tailgate (which is 25x25x3mm angle and some 50x3mm flat for supports. hinges are 16mm tube and 12mm round bar welded up with the tig to make hinges.

steel was $500 all up but i have HEAPS left (you can just see my steel rack in the photo, got 2 lengths of 40mm sq RHS, 1/ length 50x5 50x3 and 100x6, 25mmsq rhs x 2 lengths and heaps of tube and round bar.), as everything i needed i bought a minimum of a length. If i was to buy just what i need , including the timber for the tray only i could do it again for $500

Photos of the Builduploading now so give it a few minutes)
http://gallery.me.com/srowlandson#100376

Steve

[Lotz-A-Landies]

hmm, it appears you are right? ...
... Steve

Steve

Sometimes when the chrome ball is scored it won't hold oil so the temporary fix is to use grease. It is a poor alternative as the Spicer joint in the axle yokes and the Railko swivel pins get very little lubrication.

If you are at this point you may as well fix it correctly. Check the swivel and replace the seal or chrome ball if necessary and also check the "distance piece for bearing sleeve" (Part No 217351) on the stub axle for scoring and replace if necessary.

Then replace the hub seal and apply a good quality jointing paste to the drive flanges and you should have good lubrication and no leaks.

Diana

[Blknight.aus]

no, grease them bearings. the oil will wash it out later anyway but if for some reason your oil levels low in the diff (or your using 85/140) the bearing grease will save the bearings.

try this for the tensioning procedure.

crank the inner nut up tight and spin the wheel
tighten the inner nut up again and spin the wheel
when you have significant drag on the wheel undo the nut without disturbing the wheel
do the nut up to "just touching"
place in the lock washer
put the outer nut on and crank it up to "tight" (50ish nm)
spin the wheel. If its not dragging lock up the tab seal it up and take it for a test drive after you fill the diff up with oil if its not warming up all well and good. once youve done 50Km or so jack it up and do the rim rock check.