V8 Main Crank Oil Seals

[101RRS]

The 3.5 V8 in my 101 is beginning to develop an large leak from the rear main crank oil seal. I will do the usual, such as using older engine, engine oil and maybe some engine honey but that will only put off the inevitable.

So can the main crank oil seals be replaced in situ - if not - how far does the engine have to be stripped down?

The engine has only done 112,000km but sat for about 8 years so most likely the seals have hardened rather than any other underlying engine issue. Engine runs fine and has no other issues. With use it will leave a pool of oil about 3" across in a minute or two when the engine is stopped.

Thanks

Garry

[langy]

As a previous owner of a 2 door RR, I hate to say this, but it may not be the engine seal. Even though the oil may be dark like engine oil, I had a leak with a similar description to yours and it turned out to be the input shaft bearing and seal on the LT95. I can only suggest you drop the cover plate from the bellhousing and confirm that engine oil is dropping from the rear of the engine.

As for the oil seal, I once did an in-situ two part replacement on a ford v8 - it was very fiddly and frustrating. Given that the 101 is what it is, I'd suggest engine out and do it easy on a bench.

[101 Ron]

Hi Garry.
I do not know the type of seal the rover motor runs.
It will most likely be a normal lip type seal.(older motors run a wick type seal)
If a press in type lip seal, the gearbox and transfercase will have to dropped and the flywheel removed from the motor to access the seal.
The dropping of the gearbags on the 101 should not be a big problem because of the easy access and large amount of room.(pulling the engine is the hard job)
The hardest part is getting the double uni off the side of the transfer case (winch drive)which can be done by dropping the bottom off the transfercase or removing part of the winch from the chassis.
Taking the gearbag out though the top or bottom would depend on the gear you have advailible to you.
If a wick type seal the sump is dropped off the motor and the crank main caps loosened abit and the rear main cap removed.
The crank just drops down a small amount in the motor , the old seal is removed with a bit of wire or similar and a new one worked though the the groove for the seal and fitted(this takes a bit of skill and practice to do and set the new seal up correctly)
My bet would be the rover motor has the first option of a lip type seal on the back of the crank and the gearbox out.
While the gearbox is out it would be silly not to do the clutch and the gearbox main shaft (input shaft) oil seal too.
What you really need to do is to double check that it is the the rear main leaking and not a leak from the rear of the valley cover and running down.
Take the gearbox flloor plate out and degrease and take the vehicle for a run with the floor plate out and check for leaks.

[101 Ron]

[101RRS]

Thanks Langy and Ron,

Definitely the rear main seal. Shame it is not a subaru ea81 engine - engine seal can be done with no dismantling of the engine as long as the flywheel is off.

I have no issues unbolting the gearbox - I will not remove it completely just slide it to the rear enough to remove the clutch plate and flywheel - done that plenty of times on landies. I would prefer to do it in place and not have the hassle of engine removal. I can practice the seal replacement on my dead 3.9.

The leak is not such a big issue as yet as it seems to only leak on the flat or when the front is pointed up hill - maybe older engine oil will work as well as a little moisturiser (engine honey) and the seal will soften up with use but I need to be prepared for the worst case scenario that the seal has dried out and cracked or had some of the sealing face removed.

Cheers

Garry

[djam1]

I had a similar problem with my Stage1 V8 the rear main can be done without pulling the Engine just the same as the EA81.
As previously mentioned the LT95 pump housing and front seal are notorious for leaking lap the front cover on a piece of glass with some wet and dry.
We found that mine was warped 30 thou or so causing that &&%% leak.
I know the V8 in the 101 is older than the Stage 1 but at least the Stage 1 seal can be done in situ.
Dont skimp on the gearbox input seals and gaskets do it once and you will not have to do a job that is a PITA twice