Defender 300tdi Ute - Stripping down -Galvanizing - Radiator - etc.

[jplambs]

Ok as some of you may have noticed I bought a Defender ute a little while back. I managed to get it reasonably cheaply, it has a reconditioned engine in it 10000 kms ago so I figured it was worth it.

My original plan was to keep it for a few years and then upgrade to one in better condition, and also to see if I really liked driving it, after all I might love landy's but as this was my second and my first that was drivable I had to make sure. To cut a long story short I love the thing, so now I am thinking that I will strip it down fix all the rusty bits and galvanize the chassis and firewall.

So here are the questions.

Are there any tutorials on unbolting a 300tdi (ute) from cab to chassis? I have looked in the appropriate sections but cannot find anything, I've also tried a few searches.

Does anybody know how much it will cost to galvanize the chassis and firewall?

How long will it take to undo everything? My brother and I are pretty mechanically minded so it shouldn't be a problem doing everything ourselves.

Has anybody managed to get a new radiator for a 300tdi recently and if so from where? I got a quote for a recore on my current one for $691. At this stage I am thinking of importing one from the UK.

Any other pointers/tips? I want to make up a new tray for it so I probably will do that at the same time.

As far as I can tell the firewall is in pretty good nick, the doorposts have rusted out and the footwells could do with patching/replacing but other than the it looks good. I drove through a very heavy storm out of Narracoorte a couple of weeks ago and there were no leaks anywhere into the cab.

I wont be starting this until I move back to S.A. in February so I have a little time to get everything together - which reminds me I have to buy a mig welder.

[jplambs]

I forgot to add, as part of this rebuild I would like to add a rear pto shaft similar to what was available on the series vehicles, I was wondering if anybody had done this as I am thinking that while I have the chassis separate it would be an ideal time to make any modifications necessary to the rear cross member, etc. The other alternative as I see it would be to rig up a hydro motor to the transfer case that then powers the pto shaft that would have to bolted on to the back somehow.

The ute isn't going to be used for 4wdriving purposes that much, its mainly going to be used as a farm vehicle so things like this will be really useful.

[austastar]

Why would you want to galvanise a SA farm vehicle?
Unless you are farming oysters that is.
I would not have thought rust would be a problem in that climate.
cheers

[jplambs]

Hi Austastar,

Mainly because we are pretty close to the coast at present in S.A. and because of the door post and the outrigger that are rusty I was thinking that once they were fixed it would be a good idea for them to stay that way. I don't know, maybe painting them properly might be just as good?

[cal415]

Well im part way through something similar with my county, click the link in my signature and you will see what i mean, I never actualy bothered getting the bits gal dipped though i used cold gal paint, i was a bit worried about warping if i got them gal dipped.

Stripping it wasnt that hard although lots of bolts snapped off or had to be cut off, i would suggest buying replacement bolts in stainless or gal, you can buy stainless bolt kits for doors etc from UK suppliers or source them locally cheaper but then you have to work out what sizes etc the kits are nice and simple.

The cost of gal from a local place i think was about 2 dollars per KG of the total item after it had been dipped so it would have ended up costing a few hundred per item but that said theres a good chance it could warp.

My chassis was ok except the passenger side firewall outrigger had a bit of rust so we remade the end of it also the rear cross member was badly rusted so we cut it off and are making a new one.

Its a pretty big job, the most time consuming part is just cleaning things up....

Oh for the radiator you should contact Aussie desert coolers, Im getting a few radiators off them, 750 for a custom heavy duty alloy radiator...

[jplambs]

Thanks Cal415,

I hadn't even thought about warping, cold gal would be much cheaper too. Only thing is that it wouldn't be able to get inside the chassis... I'll have to think about that. We use a fair bit of it on the farm and it always seems to last really well.

[mark2]

I have galvanised my 110 chassis with no warping issues.

I chickened out on the firewall and ended up sandblasting it and painting with organic zinc then overcoating with enamel. I've since come up with a design for a simple jig which I'm sure would have kept it straight. I've successfuly galvanised a Series 2A firewall but they are stiffer than a 110 firewall.

The cost of doing the chassis was about $100 for sandblasting plus about $250 for the galvanising plus trailer hire etc. The price will vary according to the current commodity price of zinc. The big advantage of dipping the chassis is that the inside gets coated which is where the rust starts.

[Jock The Rock]

Are there any tutorials on unbolting a 300tdi (ute) from cab to chassis? I have looked in the appropriate sections but cannot find anything, I've also tried a few searches.

Does anybody know how much it will cost to galvanize the chassis and firewall?

How long will it take to undo everything? My brother and I are pretty mechanically minded so it shouldn't be a problem doing everything ourselves.

Hey mate

Might be worth investing in one of these

HAYNES LAND ROVER 90 110 & DEFENDER RESTORATION MANUAL - eBay Land Rover Workshop Manuals, Land Rover, Car Manuals Literature, Vehicle Parts Accessories. (end time 08-Nov-09 23:43:58 AEDST)

Sorry I haven't got you those other pics yet

[BigJon]

The big advantage of dipping the chassis is that the inside gets coated which is where the rust starts.

And it looks great!

[jplambs]

Thanks Mark and Jock.

Couldn't agree more Jon; that chassis looks fantastic, they certainly scrub up well, I know that there is a very small bubble of rust on the inside of the chassis back lefthand side so hot dipping it would seem the way to go if there aren't warping issues. Cold galvanising the firewall sounds like it might be a better idea as I mentioned before, otherwise I might have to get a copy of the plans for that jig.

Thanks for posting that link Jock, it never even occurred to me that haynes would have created something like that for a defender. Should be very helpful. No rush with the photos, whenever you get the camera is fine.