TD5 Clutch bite Point

[BilboBoggles]

I've noticed that the Clutch on my TD5 Defender is biting quite high on the pedal, compared to the new PUMA's Clutch. I'm not sure if it's jsut that I've forgotten where the clutch bites or if it's telling me something. For example I only have to push TD5 pedal a very short way before it disengages, wheras the PUMA needs to go nearly to floor. The TD5's clutch is not slipping, and otherwise drives fine. It does have 170,000k's on it though. I always thought that the hydraulic clutch would self adjust until there was no more friction material, and then slip. Can it also move it's grab point as it wears?

So what do you think?

[justinc]

I've noticed that the Clutch on my TD5 Defender is biting quite high on the pedal, compared to the new PUMA's Clutch. I'm not sure if it's jsut that I've forgotten where the clutch bites or if it's telling me something. For example I only have to push TD5 pedal a very short way before it disengages, wheras the PUMA needs to go nearly to floor. The TD5's clutch is not slipping, and otherwise drives fine. It does have 170,000k's on it though. I always thought that the hydraulic clutch would self adjust until there was no more friction material, and then slip. Can it also move it's grab point as it wears?

So what do you think?

Yes the friction point can move higher as the clutch wears, BUT the pedal heigt and pushrod length can all be adjusted in the 110/ 90 etc. Basically, check that the clutch pedal inside is roughly level with the brake pedal, adjust it using the stop screw on the pedal box.Then you need to remove the top cover of the clutch master cyl pedal box and check if the pushrod is actually unloaded, IE it must not be pressing hard on the master cylinder piston. Adjust it from up top so it has freeplay at the pedal of about 5 to 10mm at the pedal pad before it starts to push the piston in the master cyl. If the clutch is still engaging right at the top then it is worn. If not slipping however, keep driving. Bear in mind that a flywheel replacement is on the cards if the clutch does start to slip as they can't be machined in the Td5.

JC

[BilboBoggles]

Thanks Justin, I'm guessing it's close to death. It went through a spell of clutch judder which just fixed itself, in fact apart from the high grab point, it's driving quite well again.

[discoveryseries1]

ive got a brand new flywheel and clutch and it dosent want to disingage properly, the friction point seems to be about 5 mm off the ground. the master cylinder seems to have 10mm of free play before pressure. perhaps a word cylinder ?

[aew849]

The TD5 130 went through a series of master cylinders recently. The one that came with vehicle leaked, first replacement didn't pressurize and the second one worked for about a month before starting to leak. The replacement items were reconditioned in Perth with stainless sleeves to counter to oval wear in the cylinder bore as the input shaft isn't in line. They were all a b'stard to bleed as well.

Final replacement has worked well, with well defined bite about half way through pedal travel. The spigot bearing whines a bit, but I always start up with the clutch in. I have to reverse low range out of driveway and when cold, the biting point can give a little slip...never an issue warm.

I also have acquired a new 90 and the clutch engagement point and load is different, softer and earlier in the pedal movement...must be the ford clutch. Driving them back to back is a laugh, especially going back into the 130 truck.

AEW849