Can't really tell from the photo, but if you are using an axle from a coil sprung vehicle, you should note that they have Zero camber angle,unlike series axles that have 1.5 degrees positive camber.
The neck and flange of coiler swivel balls is stronger than the series balls and probably don't need reinforcing there, but the swivel bearings and the metal surrounding them doesn't fill me with confidence. Best do the 3rd king pin bearing I mentioned earlier.The extended bottom swivel pin on the Maxidrive portal kits were made as a one piece unit rather than the series type press in swivel pin. Wonder if Maxidrives successors have any left over?
Wagoo.
Bill, Arthur,
Perhaps this thread might help the photo posting?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-ch...tos-forum.html
If not i'll write some instructions for using photobucket, which is also my preferred method.
Note, on page 3 is instructions for posting from the AULRO gallery, Jock the Rock has a step by step guide bottom of page 12, and may be more methods later in the thread...
My biggest regret when I visited Wagoo in April was that I did not crawl all over his portalled 88 and take heaps of pics - I climbed all over it but didn't take pics.
It is a nice piece of work.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Some urgent equipment maintenance has kept me away from the Landy for a couple of days. I'll try and dig some clumps of mud from around the front axle tomorrow so the 3rd kingpin is visible enough to take a photo of.
While on the subject.I'm interested to know if any FC owners have had similar experiences to the two other swivel issues I've had over the years due to a heavier than normal front end,My vehicle isn't a FC, but it does have a lot of weight up front, with similar size tyres and wheel offset due to the portals.And it does see a lot of severe wheel wrenching terrain with alot of side loading.
The steering arms working loose and breaking the dowel studs was a persistant one that even after fitting new outer swivel housings, I could only solve by bolting a brace to the flat surface at the front of the outer swivel housing, that reached down and collared the steering arm a couple of inches behind the tierod end. The other issue that caused me to ditch the Railkos and convert to tapered roller swivel bearings at the top was once when the vehicle bellied out on a hummock.While the front wheels were off the ground, the weight of the heavier 9.00x16 Michelin tyre and swivel/hub assembly (no portals back then) caused the Railko pin on one side to punch the steel bottom out of the Railko bush, allowing the swivel/hub assembly to drop offcentre, putting the halfshaft in a bind and destroying a cv joint (Tracta joint).
Wagoo.
I think my 6x6 would be the heaviest front end around at 2500 kg but I dont do heavy off road stuff just desert sand or mud. The only issue so far is the bottom swivel bearing cup developing ridges.
I did convert to bearings top and bottom but changed back to railco as couldnt control the shimmy. I have had to lift a bit to stop the front shaft hitting the Chev starter so that didnt help. Fitted one offset castor bush but perhaps should have fitted both. The Tyre blokes have trouble balancing the 900,s. I thought it was only the Alliance I had on so went to Michelin in the hope they would balance but not much better.As long as I stay under 100kph its OK.
I dont know why its so heavy in front as the engine and box sit further back than the bonnet control and there is not that much in front of the wheels. All I can think of its that heavy galv steel cab that I moved forward thats done it. No I have not been carrying a spare spindle. As you say, perhaps I will in future.
Didiman
Ok, try these photos for a practice run. there should be one of the third kingpin among them.The others are for Garry.The truck is a bit more battered than when he saw it I think.
Pictures by wagoo - Photobucket
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