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I've been having a play in CAD with possible cabin layouts etc.
First one is in tray-back configuration.
Then I plan to build a slide-on camper for the tray. Probably a "tailgate" style camper where the rear wall folds down to form the floor for a canvas tent canopy, with a pop-top main roof and the bed on top of the main box.
Attachment 163304
Attachment 163305
A bit of rust/rot.
Hopefully my last major patch, then I can concentrate on the chassis mods... [emoji2957]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...151fbeb93a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2199bf9ce9.jpg
And new walls tacked in. Base and full welding is tomorrow's job.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cd819becee.jpg
Great find and great work Chris. I've only just stumbled onto this thread, but glad I did.
I don't think they are ugly! At least it has a little more aerodynamics than the 101 [thumbsupbig]
Looking forward to watching your project.
Ps...I have had great success with landrover parts from England during the Covid crisis. I've ordered from Ashcrofts, Turners and LRparts.net and all packages have arrived within 7 - 10 days all via DHL express. Must faster then getting packages out of Melbourne via Australia post.
Cheers
Rear axle test fitted. The spring perches are not welded on until I confirm the pinion angles on the prop shaft.
Front axle perches are nearly finished. I put the sump on the engine today, so then to tighten down the head, install the flywheel and clutch, then join up to the boxes. Then I might be ready to test fit it in the chassis! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...24c04a23c0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...90f4da70c0.jpg
I had a good chat to the modifications engineer whilst in Perth yesterday.
I needed to confirm the Toyota axle capacities to preserve my GVM. Slunnie on here knows a bit about them and found me a 60 series Toyota sales brochure that gives the axle capacities as high enough for a 3.5T GVM. Hopefully that one can be ticked off.
Brakes wise, I convinced him that a load sensitive proportioning valve was not fitted to 60 series cruisers (at least in OZ) so I don't need one of them. If I can fit a booster and MC under the snub bonnet I will run a complete 60 series dual circuit boosted system. If I have to run a remote booster then things are a bit more complicated, with the booster on the front discs only with rear drums unassisted. A brake test will determine if another booster is required on the rear circuit. I can also run a chassis mounted manual proportioning valve on the rear circuit so that the rears can be adjusted if they are locking up unloaded.
He was unfazed by the engine conversion and my intention to replace the rotary injector pump with an earlier mechanical pump. There are no emission stds for 1963 and as long as its not belching black smoke he's happy.
I need to confirm the chassis is mild steel for welding etc. Have to do some research on that one, or get a flame test done on a sample.
The engine upgrade will trigger seat belts, demister etc, but I'm doing all of those anyway.
Anyway, he answered a few grey areas and has given me a clear path forward. Lets go!
Sounds promising. Given the age of the vehicle and the size of the chassis I would think almost any engine that can physically fit would be ok and pass Engineering. [emoji106]
If you have to go with boosted front discs and an unboosted drum rear it's not the end of the world, particularly with a truck body. My XT Falcon ute performs pretty well set up that way.
Regards
Tote
Agreed - in my 101 the rear brakes do nothing around 99% of the time - the propositioning valve doesn't even begin to open until there's around 300Kg in the back, which isn't often. Front brakes pull it up very well - the new discs, doubly so, but even with the drums up front, it stopped pretty well when they were adjusted properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tote
I did try and adjust the proportioning valve once to bring in the rears sooner - with, um, shall we say 'interesting' results - requiring a change of undies when I got home. [biggrin]
Had a passenger while doing this - Mick Marsh - here's a link to his post about his thoughts on the brake test - https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forwa...ml#post2329858 [biggrin]
Should be post 540 if I've done that right...
Thanks Gav. Looking at it today there is definitely not enough room under the short bonnet to fit a conventional booster & MC, so a remote booster on the front discs circuit it will be.Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
So much to think through. Brakes, cooling, fuel system, power steering, seats.... Got to take small steps or it'll do my head in! Good fun, but I need more time for fun crap like this!
How did you end up doing the power steering on your 101? Electric and running the std box and linkages. I'm keen to get my front axle in so I can nut mine out. Got a D1 steering box here, to be swung around and mounted on the outside of the chassis rail with the input shaft facing forward, then use a defender steering column and through a couple of unis and a bevel box to get the steering shaft to the box.
