Thanks Tote. Good to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tote
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Thanks Tote. Good to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tote
I ditched the standard box as they are a known weak point in the 101 - about the only thing that is. I used a PS box from a Navara, mounted to a plate welding onto the chassis on an angle - strong and simple. The standard Navara Pitman arm picks up the 101's standard drag link with a taper adapter to match that up. A modified series 3 column then goes to a bevel box from a forward control people moved to change the direction of the steering 90 degrees and that meets straight into the PS box. Old steering relay is removed. Good think about it all is it can be taken back to factory manual steering in around 2 hours if needed, so apart from one plate welded in, nothing else is disturbed and the plate isn't in the way of anything else. Engineer liked it too - there's at least 4 x 101's running this style of PS in Australia that I know of.Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc_td5
Sounds similar to my plan. So a bevel box from something like a Hiace van? I didn't realise the vans had them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
At this stage I was going to leave the relay in the chassis. It's a ***** to remove and like you it would will mean that the std steering system is easy to reinstate if required.
I don't actually know what the bevel box was from but uses Toyota steering unis as I grabbed a couple of extras from a old Corona wreck but I think Camrys, etc all have the same ones - they were just easier to remove on the old banger that was there. Probably a large range of Japanese stuff uses the same splines...
Maybe a Tarago? I'll go take a look in the garage - I have another one I grabbed out of something in a mates yard that was written off a few years back - if it's suitable and I can find it, it's yours for the price of postage.
Good news is I found the box with all the steering stuff in and I'm pretty sure it's in there - bad news is it's right at the back of my parts shed buried under almost a complete series 3 (well all the parts to build one minus the panels and chassis).
I'll report back later - I'm going to go and do battle and sort a few things out. Just need to find a baseball bat to deal with some of the bigger critters that are likely to be in there - most 8 legged and larger than a bowling ball... [biggrin]
Survived! Have it right here - PM sent. [smilebigeye]
Got axles under it at last! Even if only temporarily until I confirm the pinion angles when I get the drivetrain and prop shafts in.
Cab temporarily placed to see how the wheel offset works.
Now to finish assembling the engine and gearbox so I can swing them in to position.
The wheels are temporary. Looking for 33-35" tyres but they can only be max 265 width to fit in the spare tyre position. All common tyre sizes this diameter seem to be 300mm+ width? It would have had 900r16s on it originally.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a82b3c3c9b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7f2d601300.jpg
900 16’s pose a bit of an issue these days. Width wise the Michielin 255/100/16 would give you something usable although in 35” like what I ran on the 101 when I bought it, but there are dear as poison. The lack of viable options is why I widened my rims and went for the 285/75/16 I’m running now and built a rear wheel carrier.
Check out the thread that’s been running in the 101 forum for some time - 9.00 16 Tyres
Yeh Gav I'm finding that. I want to run a conventional tray so don't want a rear mounted spare. Really trying to avoid having to hack in to the chassis & subframe to fit a wider tyre in to its original position. Another potential spot could be vertically in front of the head board, but this eats in to cab room or tray length...Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
I need to recalculate the gearing and see what tyre diameter I should be aiming for, for a target RPM at 100km/h. Given the OEM tyre sizes on the donor toyota and Isuzu, I may find 35" is too big anyway...
C
Engine and boxes placed in to the chassis today.
I recall that the rear output from the transfer case was about level with the bottom of the chassis rail. When I set this transfer case at the same level, the mounting looks very low, as it will need a crossmember under this. I've got about 10 degrees shift through the shaft unis so got a bit more available if I need it.
A bit more of an issue at the front. The shaft is VERY close to the bellhousing. At full front compression it will hit. I can lower the transfer case, but see above??? The engine can't be lifted any further as it's v close to the seat box.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...123db17eb8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6b8fd14d79.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1d3f443d97.jpg