Thread: Blown spicer yokes S2B front swivels.

The overdrive in a LT95 and a series Landy are different.
I am not certain ,but the Fairey in the LT95 already has a scoop either side of the main gear that channels oil into the unit.
I guess it flows back out though the bearings for the main gear.
That why the Range rover overdrives seem to last a bit longer and handle more power.
The oil between the two units appears to be shared and better lubrication and cooling the result.
The series overdrive by Fairey and Toro have seperate lubrication standard and therefore more problems.
The Range rover overdrive has different internal parts too and suffers from wear on a set of splines on the main shalt through the unit.

Oh Well - it was a try.

I don't know about yours but the Fairey O/D on my LT95 lasted less than the Fairey O/D on the 253 on a series box.

The Rocky mountain does have a collector system with an archemedes screw arrangement, but in regarding either of the Fairey I can't remember seeing one. Will look at the dead LT95 one tomorrow.

Diana

Here is a photo of a Rangerover overdrive.
Note the extensions on the casting near the drive gear.
The extensions channel the oil into the unit via a small hole.
Note the shift rail is back to front compared to the series item.
Garrycol note the extra harden ring and shims which must come with the unit so it can be fitted.

Fairey_overdrive.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The reason that the motor industry has long ago largely gone to hypoid diffs has nothing to do with the strength - it is because they allow the prop shaft to be lower,

Hypoid diffs allowed the body to be lowered over the chassis instead of being perched on top. The lowered drive line thus achieved allowed for more room inside by lowering the gearbox hump and driveshaft tunnel.

And it can't be "closer to a hypoid" - if the pinion and crown wheel axes are not in the same plane, it IS hypoid!

Hypoid is where the pinion meshes with the crown wheel below the crown wheel centre, and it is called amboid when the pinion meshes above the crown wheel centre. Typical heavy truck tandem drive diff sets use one of each.

John

Brian

Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Here is a photo of a Rangerover overdrive.
Note the extensions on the casting near the drive gear.
The extensions channel the oil into the unit via a small hole. ....

Ron

Thanks for that, the pic is very interesting and the channels you mention are definately not part of either of the earlier units. Obviously a modification to solve part of the problem we were discussing.

Onto 101 swivels and CVs.

A friend posed an interesting possibility. The 6 stud hubs and rims of the 101 are an orphan in Land Rover land and possibly designed to match the 6 stud pattern of the howitzer they were designed to tow. Others have suggested that you can fit Unimog rims to 101s.

Is it possible that the front hubs, swivels and CVs on a 101 are actually the same parts as on the Unimog? It would be a way of reducing the cost of tooling for a low volume production.

Diana

Unimog rims are almost a straight swap depending on the model of Mog.
Mogs use a portal axle set up and is completely different and is a much better set up for off road work.
I dont know about the gun wheels being interchangeable with the 101.
The Gun is the one now in use with the Aussie army and is towed over long distances with the gun barrel pointing to the towing vehicle , is unusual.
I might add everything I have driven with portal axles suffer from a drag of the extra hub reduction gear train and diffs spinning hard when driven at speed on good roads and dont tend to coast down hills like a normal vehicle.
The Mog and 101 have nothing in common and I can not wait for the Mogs to go through Army auctiions, they are a good but complex piece of kit.

Just checked the L118 light Gun has six studs in all the photos I have found, I also have a drawing of the gun with five studs.

Hi Diana - (Neil aka FAB here)
Hadn't realised there was an FC section lurking inside AULRO...

I'm still on original swivel/UJs with an LT95 perm 4WD and they've done 3,000 miles all up so far - with some pretty hard yakka up in the local sand dunes....

Having seen what a worn out UJ bearing can do to a UJ yoke (on my front propshaft) over a hundred miles it wouldn't surprise me if the ultimate cause of the Danish problem was worn UJ bearings (unless he tells us he had new ones in there!)

But - your other posts re Maxidrive shafts and the conversion to Stage I CVs sounds tempting long term... especially as my left side swivel pins/bearing are now showing signs of slackness.

BTW: I have one original IIA FC rim now being repaired - Arrow Wheels in Auckland - the man was keen to have a go at weld-filling the stud hole surrounds and grinding them to suit.
Fingers Xd!
If it works out I'll give him a second one - it has radial cracks appearing from the stud holes now

Trouble was I saw he had some 16" Minilite lookalikes on his shelf - He saw me ogling them "I can make you a custom set of those for your FC - any width/offset etc".
Chance would be a fine thing!

Our recent forays onto the beach have re-inforced the need for inner mudguards/shields alongside the engine bay. The whole of the top of the engine gets dumped with tons of sand... Lucky I kept a set of panels off an old SIII - the alloy will come in handy now.

and while I'm prattling on :
I hadn't totally realised what the original gearchange system was like on the IIA - (scary!). I still have the transfer change lever in place but not the 4WD or gearchange levers.
I have been looking to improve the overdrive shifter and saw I might be able to use the old gearchange action which is still inside the box under the floor. All I needed was what looked like (in the book) a bog-standard Series gearlever. And Lo! - I had kept the gearlever from the wrecked SIII.... This weekend should see me testing out the options.

Got way off the original post - but what the heck.
cheers. Neil