Thread: 80" steering box

The problem with fitting O/S nuts is that the worm has most wear in the centre and far less at the ends. When you fit an O/S nut it can bind on full lock.

By far the best opton is to send the whole box to Steering Services for a complete overhaul. The big charge is the shipping to London and return.

That is one of those mongrel jobs to do for such a small part.

Hope it all goes well for you.

CC

Originally Posted by 123rover50

Last time I drove Tristan the bush popped out of the bronze nut and I had to do a bush repair with another old one. In the mean time I ordered a new nut from Steering Services in the UK. They are supplied slightly OS and need to be fitted to the box housing. The internal threads need to be tried on different shaft worms to select the one that fits well I had a few so picked the best.
I have to get this ready to go to the run on the 4th so have to pull my finger out.
Keith

Will be interesting to see the results. I have always throught of doing the same thing. Are you replacing the crossshaft bushs?

I wish i could make it on the 4th it sounds like it's going to be a great turn out!

I was set to make new bushes but by selective fitting I found a good combination.
Fingers crossed.
Sorry you cant come. Catch up another time.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

The problem with fitting O/S nuts is that the worm has most wear in the centre and far less at the ends. When you fit an O/S nut it can bind on full lock.

By far the best opton is to send the whole box to Steering Services for a complete overhaul. The big charge is the shipping to London and return.

The nut supplied was standard thread size and only oversize in the body dimension so has to be fitted to the particular box one chooses to use.
It was tried on several worms. Some too tight and bound, some too loose and sloppy. I had one that was just right and the nut ran up and down before assembly.
Its really surprising the difference in the worms.
Same with body dimensions. After I turned the nut to fit this box I tried it on others. Some it was too loose and another it would not go in at all.

The later boxes has a steel nut on a steel worm with a 2 start square thread instead of the 5 start tapered thread of the bronze nut. If lubricated with oil in a non leaking box the steel on steel seem to hold up to wear much better than the bronze nut.

Warning.
If you have the steel nut design, it is critical to insert the nut with the thread end uppermost (towards the steering wheel). It will fit both ways, but if the wrong way around the nut will come off the worm at full left lock and you'll have no steering.

Steering box now feels a lot better but the test will be on the road. Still trying to fill the darn thing with oil. It takes forever. I drilled and tapped the output shaft housing for a grease nipple while I had it out.
The last few outings the steering was also very stiff, and getting worse so I popped the TRE,s and checked the swivels. Apart from a bit of initial freeplay due to worn splines on the top lever they were OK.
Checked the relay and could hardly move it.
Lucky the mudguard was still off and by removing the 3 bottom bolts that hold the rad panel I could lift it enough to get the relay bolts out.
Put the relay in the vice and rotated it a few times. Sometimes it felt good the others it felt stiff. Put the spring balance on it and it took nearly 30 pounds to move it. It should be only 14 or so.
Seems you cant get kits anymore so ordered a new one.
Keith