sorry i am not clear on what you are saying.
on the frount you nip up the snails, then back them off a notch. the drum will rotate freely but then it binds. this happens in both directions?
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heres a wrenchy one for you.
the return pipe to the MC is a touch dicey....
while all the shoes are up under pressure the fluid returns, once system pressure drops low enough the rears continue to release normally and the fluid transfers to the front till the shoes touch just enough to self energise.
to test it...
get the fault to occur
apply the brakes hard
wind the adjusters up tight
release the brake pedal
crack both the front brake pipes, preferably up at the 4 way joint that connects FL, FR, MC and Rear line.
wind off the snail cams
it should drop some fluid and if the brakes begin to improve we have an answer. If it doesnt and the brakes remain tight on the front begin cracking the lines closer and closer to the cylinders.
IF all the lines from the 4 way check out to be sound then the most likely culprit is the line from the MC to the 4 way or the fast fill valve.
Incisor, I feel your pain, my right rear was doing the same. In the end I got the ****s and took 1 or 2 mm of the brake shoe where it seats in the wheel cylinder. Probably a cardinal sin but they work now.
HmmmmmmQuote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
are the shoes rebonded or new?
everything is new cept me...
to check the drum for round.......
set/check the bearing play is 0 and that the hub can be freely turned.
mount the brake drum on backwards and secure it with taper screw and the wheel nuts
setup a DTI from the top swivel pin mount and bring it around to the inside on a set of locking arms.
if you have oversize meat on the shoes or oversize shoes in standard sized drums anything much more than 2 thou off round is going to cause you problems if you have everything else set correctly.
While the drum is in backwards...
push the shoe into the drum let it touch, if its touching at the leading and trailing edge of the lining then the shoe is nor correctly sized to the drum.. It'll eventually bed in by itself but your better off rounding it by hand initially... ideally you should get contact all the way around the lining inside the drum but in most cases you will wind up with either the center touching first (which is preferable as the brakes will get "grippier" as the shoe beds in and shoe life will be good) or the edges. If the edges touch first you need to very lightly sand back (wet and dry under flowing water to reduce dust) the edges untill you either get good contact all the way round or you have the smallest reasonable clearance for the shortest distance between the lining and the drum.
A field check to see if the pad linings are jamming into the drum is to wet them down (put the drum drain hole at the top and push a hose onto it while you turn the drum in a full circle) If the shoes dont stick in when the drum is wet then the cause of the problem is the shoes self energizing on contact then wedging into the drum.
[QUOTE=Blknight.aus;1671730]to check the drum for round.......
set/check the bearing play is 0 and that the hub can be freely turned.
mount the brake drum on backwards and secure it with taper screw and the wheel nuts
setup a DTI from the top swivel pin mount and bring it around to the inside on a set of locking arms.
Hello Blknight,
Would DTI stand for Dial Test Indicator (mechanical measuring device used in machining) or
DTI Direct Tension Indicator (Applied Bolting Technology Products, Inc.)
Yes I had to look up what DTI might mean and the Free Dictionary came up with 37 possible hits for DTI http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/DTI
Out of the 37 possible alternatives those two above seemed the closest possible meaning.
There were these two other choices as well - the last one probably most applies to me –
Detective Training Institute or
Don't Try It … especially since I had to look it up :)
Kind Regards
Lionel