Printable View
Thanks. I see it now. I put it through the printer. I wonder why that is not in all the manuals.
Another thing to be aware of is the 2 special studs on the top steering arm. One of the arms only had the standard studs fitted all round. This could lead to movement. The special studs have larger shanks to be an interference fit in opposite corners. This eliminates potential movement.
Hi Keith , My parts book for 1957-58 showa one special studs per side & 3 std studs but my series2 &2a shows 4 special studs per side. They must of had a few goese to fix the problem with the arms coming loose . As I said my 80 had 3/8" studs which were changed to 1/2" & then they started using the special studs :cool: Wayne
Dont do what I did.
Check housing first.
Had the swivels on and noticed the outer half shaft was hard against the stub.
Bent axle?
Pulled it all to bits and clamped a couple of straight edges on the flanges.
40mm difference.
Pulled the diff and put the doner front housing in after checking it was straight.
Hi Keith , Looks like 1 step forward 2 steeps back :cool:. You'll get there in the end , I have faith in you. thats why I offered it to you to restore . Was going to come up this week for the wheel but the hail stoped that idea. 5 cars & 3 houses damaged ,( none of the old ones ) so won't be up untill new year after every thing settles down . Wayne
I wonder if this method to check for a bent housing would be accurate enough, as it depends on the sensitivity of the level ?Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
Place a land rover brake drum face up on a hard level surface.
Using a spirit level, try the surface of the brake drum to check that it is absolutely level in all directions.
Then stand the empty housing on it's end on top of the face of that brake drum and then using the spirit level again, try the other end of the housing.
When the level bubble stays in the middle you have a good housing, but if the bubble runs towards one end there is a problem and I would be looking for another housing.
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Another way to check for a bent housing is to use a string line and plume bob, dropped through the housing .
From the centre at the top end down to the centre at the bottom, the string should run through the centre of where the half shafts sit in the diff carriage,
Using a string line isn't my choice of trying as it is too touchy to set up and get a accurate measurement, unless some tapered plugs are made to centre the line in both ends of the housing.
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Hi Arthur.
Didnt use a level.
Clamped the straight edges to the flanges at the ends of the housing after removing the swivel housings. As long as the flanges are clean if the axle is bent in any way the straight edges will no longer be parallel I measured the difference with a tape.
Been working on the 6x6 FC this last week and have to do the Hand brake on the Isuzu 120" today.
With six registered Landies there is lots to do.
Keith
Sorry , reading your post again, you were giving me another method of checking. I thought you thought I used a level.
( cant find a smiley)
Hi Keith, Filled up mollassis tank today. Have put in a Cooper S rim & a Jag master cylinder , will leave over the weekend & see what its like monday. May save me geting them sand blasted. Wayne
Hi Wayne . Its a SLOw process:D
You may find it takes a bit longer.
After much deliberation, I bought some paint yesterday.
If you use a black primer it should come out darker . I beleave Rover used Black primer on all there early Landrovers it gives yhe paint depth .he 1st time i painted my 80 I used black etch primer & the paint colour was correct for 49/50 . The second time Was a bit of a rush to get it ready for the Brisbane motor Show & i used a gray primer & it came out like a 52 model. Wayne
Colour is a hard one.
Should it be darker?
Photos taken at Gaydon on the other Royal thread gave me the match for this. I dont know how a flash affects the shade or how it comes up on a screen.
http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php...ch=21873;image
Mmmmm, wont copy picture . You will have to click on it.
Keith