Thread: 1954 Royal Review 47160049

The original first edition 1953 of the spare parts catalogue for the 86" and 107".

Land Rover Model 86 107 Spare Parts Catalog Original Issued 1953 | eBay
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Originally Posted by 123rover50

I am unsure of the workings of the lube system. I have left the bypass filter off untill I know the starter is OK. I have blocked off the pipe. Would this give excess pressure?
I would have thought the relief valve would have stepped in.
Perhaps once I get it revving it might unstick the ball if its stuck.

I would not have thought blocking off the oil filter would make any difference, I think thats what every one doese if they are not runing a filter. You should be able to remove the adjuster & then use a small magnet to remove the plunger & ball. Just a thought , the top main bearings only have an oil hole & the bottom ones don't you havn't got them in wrong.
Didn't you use a different oil pump from the origional with the holes in different positions. My workshop manual shows two different oil pumps.
One for engines prier to 16102272 & 16131649 then one for 16102272 & 16131649 onwards maybe the oil holes are in different positions& partly blocked. Wayne

the first 2 are from my workshop manual & the other 2 from my spare parts book. Wayne

Blocking off the oil ports for the bypass filter, may be ok on a old motor.
I am thinking that the bypass oil needs to go somewhere if the filter isn't fitted, so just loop the two ports together and try the pressure test again.

Most bearing shells have the oil hole in both halves, was yours like that?
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I had the sump off my 80 the other week to clean it out before fitting the new bypass adapter& checked the bearings while it was off , the bottom shel didn't have a oil hole & my P3 was the same . I know because I thought that all aearings had a hole & when assembling put one top one in the bottom & run a bearing, I was lucky it didn 't damage the shaft. Wayne

Originally Posted by 1950landy

I would not have thought blocking off the oil filter would make any difference, I think thats what every one doese if they are not runing a filter. You should be able to remove the adjuster & then use a small magnet to remove the plunger & ball. Just a thought , the top main bearings only have an oil hole & the bottom ones don't you havn't got them in wrong.
Didn't you use a different oil pump from the origional with the holes in different positions. My workshop manual shows two different oil pumps.
One for engines prier to 16102272 & 16131649 then one for 16102272 & 16131649 onwards maybe the oil holes are in different positions& partly blocked. Wayne

I cant remember if the bottom shells had a hole or not but I made sure all the top shell holes lined up.
I was going to swap pumps but ended up welding up the pump I broke and using it as the gears were in really good nick and did not want to scrap it.

I would still check the oil pressure with another gauge in case yours is not reading correct.Wayne

Might have the oil pressure sorted. Took out the spring on the adjustment. Started it and no pressure on the gauge but the light went out. Put the spring back with only 10mm of thread in the block and idle pressure is 20psi. I think the ball was stuck but still good pressure. I will leave it there for the moment.

Peered down the top of Tristans carby while operating the pump. There is much more fuel pumping than on the other one. In fact now it is not pumping at all.
Book says to check three non return valves. Two are easy and OK. The third is under the injection pipe. One is supposed to be able to remove it with its little plate after taking out the set screw. All I have managed to do is pull out the pipe. Might have buggered it. Any hints on getting the complete assembly out?
I have two other bodies and cant get the injector pipe from them either.
If that non return valve is stuck then that might stop the pump pumping