Thread: Frozen relay

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Something I have not tried, but occurred to me as something that might help is to try and scrape a lot of the rust out of the gap by working from below with a hacksaw blade or similar.

Always assuming there is sufficient clearance to insert a Hacksaw Blade but a good idea if you can get one in.

A Mini Blade is thinner but I think it would lack the strength of the push/pull action.

Originally Posted by 4bee

Always assuming there is sufficient clearance to insert a Hacksaw Blade but a good idea if you can get one in.

A Mini Blade is thinner but I think it would lack the strength of the push/pull action.

Hello again.

Also tried to no avail.

Cheers,

Neil

I tell you, Semtex is the only way to go, Neil.

Originally Posted by 4bee

I tell you, Semtex is the only way to go, Neil.

Hello again from Sherwood.

There have been times when the thought has passed my attention. However, for now I'm persevering with the atf/distillate irrigation and occasional sideways belt with the drift and hammer.

As noted, I'm in the process of amassing the requisite NOS internal componentry - a mix of local and international acquisitions. Once they are all to hand a decision will have to be made on whether to keep trying to remove the housing for a clean up and bench repair or just drive out the innards and overhaul it in situ.

I saw an older post from a Victorian member that successfully used a couple of large pinchbars jammed under the flanges of the upper housing - I have a couple of those tools lying about and might give that a go before looking at rigging up captive jacks and so on.

Cheers,

Neil

Originally Posted by S3ute

Hello again from Sherwood.

There have been times when the thought has passed my attention. However, for now I'm persevering with the atf/distillate irrigation and occasional sideways belt with the drift and hammer.

As noted, I'm in the process of amassing the requisite NOS internal componentry - a mix of local and international acquisitions. Once they are all to hand a decision will have to be made on whether to keep trying to remove the housing for a clean up and bench repair or just drive out the innards and overhaul it in situ.

I saw an older post from a Victorian member that successfully used a couple of large pinchbars jammed under the flanges of the upper housing - I have a couple of those tools lying about and might give that a go before looking at rigging up captive jacks and so on.

Cheers,

Neil

Yeah, why not. What could possibly go wrong?

If you do this, put a bit of heavier plate under the fulcrum of the pinch bars to spread the load and transfer the load to the sides of the crossmember.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

If you do this, put a bit of heavier plate under the fulcrum of the pinch bars to spread the load and transfer the load to the sides of the crossmember.

Hello again and thanks.

Yes, I had planned to do that to avoid damaging the crossmember - for both the pinchbar or any alternative captive jack attempt.

Cheers,

Neil

Originally Posted by flashman

I have rebuilt around 7 or 8 relays some in situ. The relay housings can be rusted into the chassis and can only be replaced by cutting out the cross member . This is when the relay needs to be rebuilt whilst still in the cross member. Rebuilding in situ is no harder than rebuilding on the bench.

Hello again.

I’m still persevering with trying to extract the whole unit from the chassis without destroying the crossmember. As part of this I had another look from beneath the unit and managed to get a keyhole blade between it and the chassis tube to begin the laborious task of trying to clean the crud out from the sides. So far after two days I’m about 180 degrees around although the fit seems to be getting tighter from now and the diff partly interferes with the handle.

The alternative option remains of attempting to rebuild it in situ, as discussed before. So, I have a query for anyone who has done it.

The workshop manual has the rebuild starting from the bottom of the housing - hence an earlier question about the inner profile and whether the internal sides are parallel and without interference from top to bottom. Why I mention that is because there appears to be two common approaches to compressing the spring for insertion. One is the factory tool or a makeup copy, and the other is a couple of fabricated C clamps held in place by hose clips.

The first looks easier and safer, but I can’t see how it can be pressed into place from underneath without the handles fouling the crossmember, whereas it would be OK from the top.

The question - can you insert the spline, bushes, washers and spring from the top of the relay housing? Or must it be done from the bottom?

I haven’t pulled my relay apart yet, so don’t know what the inner profile looks like - the cut out diagram in the manual appears to show it as uniformly parallel sided.

Cheers,

Neil