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Thread: D1 - Blower fan not working

  1. #1
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    D1 - Blower fan not working

    I need some help diagnosing my non-functioning blower fan. Over the last couple of weeks it would drop out intermittently after going over a bump, sometimes me jiggling the switch would get it back on again other times another bump would set it straight. Its gotten to the point where it no longer operates and no amount of banging or kicking will get it going again

    I've gone and checked the fan blower relay, and tested the circuit by shorting the contacts but that didnt result in anything whcih no makes me think I might be facing a loose connection or dodgy switch. I don't think its the resistor pack at this stage as the blower fan doesn't work on any of the speed settings.

    Are there any other areas that I've overlooked or any connections that are notorious for failing? I'm just about to start pulling bits to pieces to access the switch but I'd prefer an easier fix if anyone knows of one.

    Cheers

  2. #2
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    I had the same problem. I carefully pulled out the switch and gave the copper contact a light emery. It got rid of the oxidation and the switch worked great after. The contact that runs along the copper slider is what could be losing connection. (I used to have to tap the button with my finger and it would come on before i fixed it.)

  3. #3
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    Well after pulling my car to pieces all afternoon I found the switch to be in perfect working order and that the problem was that the switch was not earthed properly. In all I probably could have the problem fixed in 20 mins instead of 5 hours if I had known where the switch was earthed, but the particular point it earths too all the wires were black which turnned out to be a bit of a pain. All solved and one Sunday wasted.

  4. #4
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by stuee View Post
    Well after pulling my car to pieces all afternoon I found the switch to be in perfect working order and that the problem was that the switch was not earthed properly. In all I probably could have the problem fixed in 20 mins instead of 5 hours if I had known where the switch was earthed, but the particular point it earths too all the wires were black which turnned out to be a bit of a pain. All solved and one Sunday wasted.
    Please share where this earth is located. Pics ( if you have one)would be great to benefit if any one else in the future

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining! View Post
    Please share where this earth is located. Pics ( if you have one)would be great to benefit if any one else in the future
    Not a problem. I will take a picture tonight and post up but to explain it its behind the passenger side kick panel. There is a multi-connector with 8 earth cables attached (all black) which plugs into the male plug which in turn is bolted to the body. The cable in question is the cable closest to the passenger seat. When looking at it the cables are under quite a bit of tension (the blower fans earth the most) and I'd guess that over the years this has finally disturbed the connection enough to cause it to disconnect. The arcing from when the fan was intermittent has resulted in the connector browning slightly around the pins.

    My actual fix was to take the connector out, clean the contacts and put back together. I have bolted the other end of the connector to the body now in a way that results in much less tension on the cables and hopefully it will prevent the issue from raising its head again.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuee View Post
    The arcing from when the fan was intermittent has resulted in the connector browning slightly around the pins.
    I've been playing with mine this week and it was well and truly brown. When I got it out it just fell to pieces. Lance Dixon wanted $125 + gst for a new one. I got a good second hand one from Toorak Tractor in Braeside for $25. The bloke said he sells plenty of them because they get dirty and make poor contact and burn out.

  7. #7
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    D1 Blower Fan Switch Repair.

    For circuit diagram, refer to RAVE CD/Manual- Disco 1996, Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, Section K1, Page 6.

    1. The blower fan switch was not operating in positions 2 & 3, but running OK on positions 1 & 4. My initial assumption was that the resistor unit Z214 was faulty (mounted in firewall behind glove box – Refer to RAVE CD/Manual- Disco 1996, Workshop Manual Section 80, page 3).
    (a) I measured the resistors and all had continuity- measuring between terminals 1 (M1)-2 (L) 1.0 ohms, 2 (L)-3 (H) 1.8 ohms & 3 (H)-4 (M2) 0.5 ohms (measurements are approx. only as I used a $20 multimeter and had to subtract 0.7 ohms lead resistance from each reading). Resistors assumed all OK.
    (b) Earth wire (white/black) was checked to ensure short circuit to earth O.K.

    2. Next I removed the centre dash louvre panel to access the blower fan switch. (Refer to RAVE CD/Manual- Disco 1996, Workshop Manual Section 76, page 46-47 & Section 80 page 1-2)
    (a) Tested continuity of the wiring loom between the resistor unit 4 pin plug and the 5 pin plug at the rear of the fan switch - all O.K.
    (b) Tested the slide switch for continuity to earth (Terminal IV) in all positions. Found terminals II & III failed to make contact with IV in lever positions 2 & 3 indicating faults within the switch.

    3. (a) The blower fan slide switch was pushed out the back of the heater control unit without detaching heater control cables as follows-
    (i) Unclip the clear plastic fascia panel and the black flexible strip from the front of the slide switch.
    (ii) Working from the rear, depress the 2 tabs at the back of the switch unit – I used a screwdriver and a thin plastic slide (cut from ice cream container lid). Push the switch out the back of the heater control unit – I used a wood ruler pushed into the slide control opening.
    (ii) The switch can be disassembled by unclipping 6 plastic tabs. Be observant of the orientation of the 3 contact surfaces on the end of the lever –they need to go back the same way. Also be careful not mislay the 3 small coil springs.
    (iv) Arcing damage was standing proud of the contact rails and this was abraded away using a strip of fine emery paper. Once the rail surfaces were flat (a small amount of pitting remained that could not be repaired) they were thoroughly cleaned with metho and rag. The switch was reassembled and plugged in to ensure it worked before everything was reassembled.
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