Thread: Disco 300tdi Turbo actuator rod length

Originally Posted by fatbaldingoldgit

Hi guys..This is my first post here...am looking for some advice - aren't we all?

I'm relatively new to Land Rovers..but have bought a 1996 ex-Jap auto aircon Disco...with 100,000 miles on it...seems in nice condition wrt rust...just stripped it down and replaced the timing belt...and for some reason unknown to me I've also removed the Turbo actuator rod from the lever on the exhaust.

The rod itself was bent slightly so it looks like someone has had a go at it. The rod won't go easily back onto the lever, which moves freely. I reckon there is about 8mm of gap. Now I can get the rod to fit back onto the lever with a piar of mole grips but my question is:

As they came outta the factory did the actuator rod fit without any gap?...or if not what gap should there be.

I understand the ability to shorten the rod to increase turbo boost pressure and it looks like someone has done that already. Before I bolt everything back together I'd like to start from standard and make adjustments from there.

I've got a boost pressure gauge on order so I can check in case the spring has gone weak..but the spring feels pretty strong to me..

Any advice will be welcome..../David

Welcome to the Forum, I don't have the answer, so I'm giving you a bump to the top of the page, Regards Frank.

Dont have acess to my RAVE manual but if it was running alright before you removed it just refit it so your mobile and work it out later. No use pulling your hair out. Did you straighten it ? sounds like someone may have tried to tweak the boost. As in all my posts happy to be corrected by way of Guidence, if i'm wrong.

You have to pull the rod against the spring in the actuator to get it onto the waste gate lever. This pre-loads the spring so that it will hold the waste gate closed until the boost pressure acting on the diaphragm overcomes the spring pre-load.

The amount of pre-load determines what boost pressure is required to open the waste gate. Increase the pre-load if boost pressure is to low and vice versa.

Sorry I can't tell you a length. I suggest you install it at the original setting and check the boost pressure when your gauge is installed. Unfortunately the link is in a difficult position to work on.

The stock boost pressure is approximately 15 psi or 1 bar. You can happily run up to about 18 psi or 1.2 bar - beyond that the compressor is out of it's efficient region and heats the charge air rather than producing much useful air flow increase.

In addition to Bush65's info, your Ex Jap Disco Tdi will be an EDC engine, with electronic injector pump and a MAP sensor. This means that if you adjust the rod to exceed 15 psi, it may well go into limp mode/ missfire under load as the computer controlling the fuel management has a fit. These EDC 300Tdi's are a disaster IMHO and fitting a non electronic early VE pump and a throttle cable etc will make it far more reliable. If it is an auto though, the trans is also electronically controlled so you would be better off leaving it all alone in that case and buy a workshop manual for it, check the current operating signals etc and return to factory specs if they are out. Good luck
Oh, and welcome to AULRO 'you Git'


JC

Thanks for the advice guys..I think I'll stick with factory default as it's an auto....although I do like a good tinker occasionally..

One further question for Justinc..How do I "check the current operating signals"?...

Originally Posted by justinc

In addition to Bush65's info, your Ex Jap Disco Tdi will be an EDC engine, with electronic injector pump and a MAP sensor. This means that if you adjust the rod to exceed 15 psi, it may well go into limp mode/ missfire under load as the computer controlling the fuel management has a fit. These EDC 300Tdi's are a disaster IMHO and fitting a non electronic early VE pump and a throttle cable etc will make it far more reliable. If it is an auto though, the trans is also electronically controlled so you would be better off leaving it all alone in that case and buy a workshop manual for it, check the current operating signals etc and return to factory specs if they are out. Good luck
Oh, and welcome to AULRO 'you Git'


JC

Thanks for adding that JC, I hadn't considered the EDC when I posted earlier.