Thread: Fitting up cranked trailing arms to a 95 Disco

If you 1/4 turned the photo ANTI clockwise .... that would be the go

Basically fit the rubber blocks to the chassis, and shove the threaded rod (of the track rod) into the hole ... The arm should point down at the ground,which is also the location of the "hook up point area" on the diff housing

... You want the diff to travel further downwards, when it articulates ....

Mike

Thanks again for your help Mike.Thats the way i did it. But i just wanted to make sure before i did the other side.

Cheers
Chris

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

If you 1/4 turned the photo ANTI clockwise .... that would be the go

Basically fit the rubber blocks to the chassis, and shove the threaded rod (of the track rod) into the hole ... The arm should point down at the ground,which is also the location of the "hook up point area" on the diff housing

... You want the diff to travel further downwards, when it articulates ....

Mike

What he said

Or fit them angle up with cut down springs and some doof doof music-----fully sick. pat

Originally Posted by PAT303

fully sick.

........

Just so SPROVER knows why they are cranked and why they should be installed one way and not the other.

when you lift (longer springs) a coil rover, ONE of the problems is the chassis end trailing arm bush is missaligned with the TA as it is now at a steeper angle at ride height, this leads to premature wear and the bush doesnt allow as much down travel as stock(as some of the down travel is already being used in essence) the bend in the TA is to have the chassis end coming into the mount/bush at the original angle or there abouts.

Serg

I also just fitted up some Britpart (QT) ones on Saturday (24th Apr) afternoon.

They originally had Polybushes in them and without bending out the diff mounting brackets it was nigh impossible to fit them.

I opted to remove the Polybushes and replace them with original Land Rover rubber bushes.

The hardest part next to undoing the bolts on removal, is aligning the trailing arm bush centre with the diff/axle housing mounting bracket which took a little persuasion to get it lined up just right. If you don't you just can't get the bolt through!

A drop of thread lock and two trusty 1 1/8" spanners and the connection to the axle end is done. It's a 30mm spanner for the nut holding the arm in to the chassis bush.

The thickness of the arms is sure to mean no bends when in the rough stuff and the bend has really reduced the pressure on the chassis bush improving the articulation and hopefully its longevity.