Thread: Mantec v Safari Snorkel

I thought the mantec was designed for the defender to give better performance?. Pat

I have the Mantec fitted to my Defender (2010 90) and I have no complaints. Breathes well and intake noise is a lot quieter.

I chose the Mantec because I read that the shape of the intake was designed to minimize dust ingestion. Aerodynamics aids in particle separation or some techy bumf...

I've been a safari man for many years and I've had no complaints. The mantec has however made a significant difference on the condition of my air filter.

Following up from a thread on the Defender pages, it seems to be a choice of what you want to do with the car.

Wading through deep water - Safari with the wading bits and bobs as it clearly offers better waterproofing options
Touring dusty dirt roads - Mantec for better dust management.

Personal choice I suppose...

Cheers!

Its on a Disco II Td5.
Yesterday morning i disconnected the snorkel,in fact i removed the hose and duct from the airbox to the inner wing,drove it (with standard fuel map),it definatly drove better,especialy at critical point of 3000 to 3500 rpm,no difference at lower revs(didn't expect to).
Then i reloaded the stage 1 map again,till 3000rpm i got the expected power increase,and i FINALLY regained the lost power from 3000rpm upwards
I even got 2nd gear to 4500rpm easily,then 3rd to 3800+ and then end of the road
It also smokes less,so now i am building a bypass system,hopefully easy to go from snorkeled(off-road) to non-snorkeled(road) use..
I'll make some more test drives,i 'll tell my buddy to connect-disconnect the snorkel witout me knowing when this applys,just to make sure it's not the placebo effect(cause i am conviced that snorkel steels the breath of my motor)and then pics are on the way..
Cheers.

Bypass system version 1.1
I used two bottlenecks (of 1lit oil bottles),the caps seal ok when on,i get the extra air for the motor when off,till i built a complete system from scratch..

I'll be installing a safari to my d2 this weekend, Maybe I should do some recordings with the nanocom before I start.

I plan on documenting the install process.

I recorded many .fu files with nanocom,pre and post (almost)any mod i make.
Nothing extremely different pre and post snorkel fitment but i could feel it on the road.
Focus on boost readings,raising the boost helped regainning some lost oomph in the meantime.
Happy wrenching and i am waiting for your observations.
Cheers.

Originally Posted by Loubrey

I have the Mantec fitted to my Defender (2010 90) and I have no complaints. Breathes well and intake noise is a lot quieter.

I chose the Mantec because I read that the shape of the intake was designed to minimize dust ingestion. Aerodynamics aids in particle separation or some techy bumf...

I've been a safari man for many years and I've had no complaints. The mantec has however made a significant difference on the condition of my air filter.

Following up from a thread on the Defender pages, it seems to be a choice of what you want to do with the car.

Wading through deep water - Safari with the wading bits and bobs as it clearly offers better waterproofing options
Touring dusty dirt roads - Mantec for better dust management.

Personal choice I suppose...

Cheers!

You can purchase preoiled liners for an external wrap on the Safari snorkel head, or a liner like a sock ( i think they call them droopies ) which fits inside the neck. Both are designed for heavy dust use. They can be changed quickly, and stored in zip bags until the opportunity arises to clean them prior to reuse. Both prolong the life of expensive OE paper filters. You can also purchase 'cyclone' type swirl ( the name escapes me at present, but they are well known - Donaldson) cleaners that mount on the snorkel neck. Good for low speed convoy work in heavy dust, but they lose their effectiveness as speed rises.

Sorry to hear of your problems Fatman. Nothing worse than trying to improve things and ending up with a big negative side order. Mate I like the bypass idea but I recommend that if you do that you run tubes to an area of cooler air flow if possible. Engines like nice cool air not under bonnet high temps. You could rip the hoses off and put your caps on for water work. Cheers