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Well, so much for that.
Sheared off one of the lower swivel pin bearing mounting bolts.
I had my torque wrench out, and although I haven't had it calibrated, it torques the same as my other torque wrench, or it did last time I checked - and haven't used it since.
Anyone know if 58ft/lb is correct?
I heated the bolts up with lpg to get the blue stuff off, could that have been enough heat to weaken them? They weren't coloured hot or anything.
So, another trip to Penrith.
TIA
Simon
make sure you clean out all material when you do it using parts cleaner a tooth brush works well also i made the mistake of slaping the new one together quickly it cost me another $600.00 in seals and oil from the srapnel still floating around in the oil with the bolt i just got new ones and cleaned the thread from the female end with a tap and cutting oil
if you are hard on your cv's try Morey's Oil Super Red Premium Multi-Purpose EP Grease insted of the oil
john
96 v8 disco
lj gtr xu1 torana
dt 200
Have you repaired the old CV with a new cage/balls or have you replaced it all, and if so, what with ?
I think Serg told me on the phone a few weeks back that GKN and L/Rover have discontinued the AEU2522 CV ?
{edit} Doh ! it's outa the 130 not the 110 :whistling:
The shop had one GKN when I called at 5pm when I called at 9 the next morning just to confirm the hold there was some kind of problem with it. I ended up with a ABS one, I think RR, might even find the part number tomorrow. Would've preferred the GKN, but you can buy a lot of these before you get to the next option. Seemed stiffer than I expected, but I don't know much about CVs.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Old one had some terminal looking scars, and the bearings disappeared with the kids almost before I had them out.
Normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by abaddonxi
The Lobro ones we used on use on the race cars could be so stiff from the factory they wouldn't plunge (rear end) making the car hop across the tack :eek:
Any new CV I'd hit with the flapper wheel on the die grinder to relive the grooves a little and dress the cage so the balls would fall through easily.
This was doubly needed when we machined the centre out of the OD of the bell to within 3mm of the grooves as the bell would 'shrink' slightly.
I wouldn't bother doing any of that with a road going vehicle though.
:DQuote:
Originally Posted by abaddonxi
Well they are round and shiny :cool:
Never seen a C.V. or Wheel Bearings last longer in grease thanQuote:
Originally Posted by rover1
Oil no matter what the type of Grease used.
Well, the bolt is out, sheared off another screw extractor in the process, but it made enough of a job that I could shift it with hotness, coldness and vice-grips.
That's zero for two on the screw extractor front for me, and the extractor set that has been sitting in the tool box unused for twenty years is looking like bin material.
Of course it could be user error.:angel:
No, no it's the tool!:p
And a quick call to JC, day before he went on holidays, thanks Justin.;)
Maybe try something a little less than the 58ft/lb as written in the book. Checked the web, 30ft/lb looked a lot more sensible.
And sorted.
Followed by the thought that I really should look at the other side if I'm going to put new oil in it. Hoping for something nice and quick, I knew the hub seal was a little bit stuffed.
Oops, started taking it apart and the swivel is all out of whack, so everything comes apart.
We will not discuss how long it took to take the drive member nut off. Some idiot glued it on a lot more than it needed, and I can't blame the kids this time. Bugger, bent my favourite pry bar.
And Mrs Xi isn't happy either, baby due very, very soon, and the truck is supposed to be doing truck things.
Lower swivel bearing completely stuffed, three of the rollers are in pieces.
Guess that'd be where the wander came from.