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Thread: your 110 suspension

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Tumbi Umbi, Central Coast, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    hello fellow roverers


    1: photos of your vehicle (flexed up or at stand)




    2: state what size lift/suspension(1,2,3,4,5,6 inch lift etc etc) or mod's you have chosen and also reason why!

    No lift, no mods, because I'm pretty happy with the way Land Rover builds the Defenders.

    3:what problems you encountered when you done the mod's and how you overcome them(fabricated or purchased all associated bushes,mounts drop arms,extended brake lines or little tricks and techniques etc etc)

    No problems, because I left things alone.

    4:where bits and pieces were purchased or ordered from and prices of parts/kits.
    N/A

    5: photos of your parts (suspension related ) lol
    N/A

    6:brand preferences....
    N/A

    7:any other interesting mods and conversions you have/or have seen (weird suspension setups,other kits/parts from other brands of vehicle mated to land rovers etc etc)
    N/A

    8:engineering costs and regulations (ways around)
    No cost at all.

    disco's are welcome to join in also
    A tiny minority of us think Land Rover have done a good job, so we leave things alone and as a result tend to have few problems.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    where every one holidays, sunny coast
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    3" very soft springs dobbins i think?? with 655mm shocks allround ,

    the resion i went the 3" is it sags to about 2 and a bit inch lift so its still prity high and a very very good ride, put with the extended shocks there is more spring to push down then with a 2" lift spring, it has worked very well and flexes very nicly,

    the draw backs, i have a front prop vib at 55kph that will be fixed with a d2 doublecardon when funds allow,

    i have no wonder at all and it still handles the same as new, so im in no rush to get caster correction as i feel it dosent need it,, still a very stable drive at speed,

    will post a pic asap,

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW far north coast
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    If you are going to do this, list the coils free length and rate (preferably in lb/in, easier for an old fart than N/mm ) would be a good idea, as just listing a brand is pretty meaningless.
    If you don't know the rate, listing the total number of coils and wire diameter is good, then the rate can be calculated pretty easily.

    This way you can make a more informed decision on your suspension.
    Oh, and here's a list of Land Rover and aftermarket spring data

    land rover spring specifications

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren
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    Fronts springs in my 110 are OME 764 16.9" 240lb, spaced shocked tower 25mm with OME 80series shocks and radius arms fitted with Haultech slotted bushes

    Rear springs are OME 755 17.1" 280lb with 25mm spring spacer and Pro Comp shocks, springs are retained top and bottom

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW far north coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by defenderkev View Post
    Fronts springs in my 110 are OME 764 16.9" 240lb, spaced shocked tower 25mm with OME 80series shocks and radius arms fitted with Haultech slotted bushes

    Rear springs are OME 755 17.1" 280lb with 25mm spring spacer and Pro Comp shocks, springs are retained top and bottom
    That combination should max out the front flex nicely Kev.

    I used to run Sams bushes too and they work well, but I flog them out too fast for a daily driver so went to Super Pro.



    Front end.
    Modified Koni 80 Series Toyota dampers
    Towers raised 7mm or so.
    Standard bump stops.
    17" free length 220lb/in springs. (LRA 'Purple' )

    Rear
    standard 130 springs (retained)
    Modified Monroe dampers from a leaf sprung Patrol (can't recall the stroke, but it's around 10"+)

    Almost entirely Super Pro bushes these days, but the front did have a touch more flex with the Haultech slotted bushes and did walk around a touch more on the bitumen too.

    Old flex shot. Those tyres are 255/85's too, so are a bit taller than 7.50/16's or 235/85's

    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Cessnock NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnx205 View Post
    A tiny minority of us think Land Rover have done a good job, so we leave things alone and as a result tend to have few problems.
    thanks dad lol
    he has the same opinion and same setup as yours

  7. #17
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    Jul 2008
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    cant wait for photos of the 3" lift stig0000 sounds like your pretty happy with it.

    and rick130 ill get measurments of all my springs asap because i have no idea what ratings they all are.

    off topic for a sec but since i have 10.5" wide tyres and offset rims it makes the tyres sit just in line with the flares maybe even a tad past hence flicking alot of mud/dirt etc etc up the side so i was wondering does anyone have any suggestions (apart from getting standard rims ) any home made ideas or have you's seen any places where you can get deefer flares? considering i was looking at going 12.5" wide tyres that will make the problem even worse

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
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    Yes, you can get wider flares.

    Can't recall ATM, I think Discowhite had them on his 90, a few others on here run them too.

    {edit} when I mentioned modified shock absorbers/damper in the above post I meant revalved and internal mods, eg the Koni's are re-valved (reduced bump valving, maximum rebound valving and Silkolene Pro SRF fluid) and the internal adjusters shortened and the Monroes run the heaviest fluid I could find (Silkolene Pro SRF 15wt) and I can vary the gas pressure as I added external Schrader valves.
    Unfortunately they still have too little low speed rebound so are a bit floaty but it runs well over rough/corrugated roads.
    Oh, and the pins were shortened on the Koni's and reduced thickness urethane bushes used on the damper side of the pins. Basically a cheats way of getting a shorter closed length so I didn't have to raise the towers as high to maximise droop.

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