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Thread: 3.5 V8 with 350 Holley starting issue

  1. #11
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    Do my eyes deceive me . or has your main throttle shaft got a big woof in it . It looks badly bent , Holley 350's are hopeless for throttle shaft seals even wih a straight shaft ,
    As the man said , set your bowl height with the electric pump running engine off , if it slops out with a healthy rock then that right , if fuel is coming out the Horn than your needle seat or level setting is up da **** .
    If you hunt around you will find (black plastic) a return fuel line , there good for preventing Vapor locks and keeping the fuel temp down . Fit a fuel line regulater and set it to 5 PSI on the return side .

  2. #12
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    I ran a 350 on 2 of my rangies over 8 years with the jets i mentioned earlier and also a plastic float without problems and no return line. The arrowed port is the fuel bowl breather and if fuels is pumping out then the needle/seat is sticking and not shutting off the fuel supply, 62 jets are too big for a stock 3.5.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS View Post
    Do my eyes deceive me . or has your main throttle shaft got a big woof in it . It looks badly bent ,.
    Ive had to bend it to go around the huge pancake filter (although just re reading that maybe you dont mean my linkage, you actually mean the carb shaft itself in which case that is straight)

  4. #14
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    While you are in there, fit a plastic float, a new power valve and accel pump diaphragm. (All parts I used to stock when Holleys were common.) Make sure the gasket between the metering block and the main body has the right hole to connect the small passage through the big cavity in the main body. The cavity is at manifold vacuum and the passage is your accel pump channel. Must not leak into vacuum!

  5. #15
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    Thanks guys. I will get onto it tommorow evening hopefully.

    Rgds
    Pete

  6. #16
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Ok, I took the float chamber off the Holley earlier after fiddling about for a bit with the float level. (not convinced I improved anything!)

    I then put it back together, and there was no improvement. It did however seem to pump fuel out of the part highlighted in the pic below!



    So I have removed it again and taken it apart!
    The float level is on the RHS of the bowl ... the brass screw ... Fuel is to be level to the bottom of the screw hole

    Your float level is adjusted by loosening the TOP brass screw and turn the nut under ...left or right ... as required (moves the needle & seat)
    Also take the needle out and suck on it to make sure that it is sealing ... as the rubber tip goes hard



    The fuel coming out of that top pipe means it's flooding


    Holley carbs are easy as to work on ... Just make sure that all the gallery holes are blown out with compressed air

    But the biggest secret with holley's are the gaskets ..... They are fussy as ... basically when you take them apart, you should always use a brand new "metering" gasket and a "bowl" gasket .. (or at least have a spare set at hand if it plays up)

    ALL your gaskets are totally shagged ... and that is the main reason for it going belly up


    Cheers
    Mike

  7. #17
    steve_35 Guest
    If all was ok prior then their isn't much point adjusting or changing things
    If the carb is stuffed dont waste your time with it just buy a new one or reco
    You should get one reco for around 400

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve_35 View Post
    If all was ok prior then their isn't much point adjusting or changing things
    If the carb is stuffed dont waste your time with it just buy a new one or reco
    You should get one reco for around 400
    Holleys are so easy to work on and there is nothing that cant be replaced, at worst the shaft wears and then needs to be repaired but otherwise its all cheap replacement parts.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  9. #19
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    Thanks for all the advice guys.

    I got a kit and rebuilt the carb, refitted it and it still didnt start. same exact issue, although I got the float level right this time!

    So I went looking and discovered I had knocked a wire off one of the electronic ignirion things!

    Doh. so it now starts on the button, every time. Bit of a blow from one exhasut manifold so i will remove and refit that later.

    Cant wait to give it a run.

    Thanks again.
    Pete

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Thanks for all the advice guys.

    I got a kit and rebuilt the carb, refitted it and it still didnt start. same exact issue, although I got the float level right this time!

    So I went looking and discovered I had knocked a wire off one of the electronic ignirion things!

    Doh. so it now starts on the button, every time. Bit of a blow from one exhasut manifold so i will remove and refit that later.

    Cant wait to give it a run.

    Thanks again.
    Pete
    Isnt it always the way , at least you know the carby is good for a long while yet .
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

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