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Thread: Question for spring gurus...

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Thanks Simon, yes rates will obviously stay the same, But I was interested in the possibility of them behaving differently, due as you say to differences in construction. The main reason for the whole Idea is so as I can fit the inner coils for towing/ touring. So If it were you, you'd agree that the possible differences in the springs behaviour, given that they would be 'rated' the same, wouldn't be all that noticeable? I know that a 110 with good dampers and standard rear coils is a good ride, even though they have 10" more wheel base I'd have to expect some similar characteristics if fitted to my RRC, given that I have a big fuel tank, drawers and fridge, Rear 2nd batt and HF radio etc etc. The addition of food/ stores,a twin spare carrier with Wolf rims and 255/85/16 BFG's, and the 90 to 100kg drawbar weight of the camper would be a little too much possibly, hence the idea of using the 130 helpers. At present I am running single DeCarbon +2" rear shocks, I'll possibly upgrade to twin at the rear also.

    JC
    Ah ok. I don't know with total certainty because I've never done the mod. I would expect it to handle a fraction better. I also wouldn't be inclined to compare the performace of the spring in the Defender to what you might get in the Rangie as the static and dynamic loads are all different. The differences in setup for the rear of the D2 in comparison to the D1 is a great example of this, let alone the RRC to the Defender.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by yt110 View Post
    I have the same problem,I'm on my third set of rear springs on my county.Its almost impossible to get a good balance,the set I run now were too short so I got them reset longer,but still ended up putting the polly airs back in just to help out when fully loaded,they are a bit harsh when its empty,so I just keep it loaded ready for a quick get away.
    Counties had a good ride quality due to having a load leveller and softish coils from factory, best set up BUT hard to get a load leveller that actually works nowadays without spending up big$$$

    I agree, finding the right spring is difficult, makes full airbags look atractive, but not for me for this particular vehicle.

    Have you tried Genuine standard Defender rear coils? Thats what I'll be using in the end I reckon. Good height and rate.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post


    You HAVE been busy Matt!!!


    Looking good

    JC
    Always something on the go

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Ah ok. I don't know with total certainty because I've never done the mod. I would expect it to handle a fraction better. I also wouldn't be inclined to compare the performace of the spring in the Defender to what you might get in the Rangie as the static and dynamic loads are all different. The differences in setup for the rear of the D2 in comparison to the D1 is a great example of this, let alone the RRC to the Defender.
    True, D1 and D2 are vastly different I agree, the same goes for 110" wheelbase Vs 100" etc etc. AND I am doing the unthinkable by adding yet MORE weight to the rear of the Rangie with a twin carrier etc, but in the end If I can't have a 110, then I must try and work with what I have. (Besides, gotta try and balance out that lump of Jap cast iron in the front!)

    Thank Simon

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #15
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    You will probably find the larger dia springs are probably less prone to sag as the wire has lower stress rates compared to the rangie ones too.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    You will probably find the larger dia springs are probably less prone to sag as the wire has lower stress rates compared to the rangie ones too.
    True, the instances of replacing rear coils on defenders for me anyway is quite rare. usually the factory springs will do at least 250 to 300K.

    I fit heaps of fronts, usually due to bar and winch sag, I mostly fit 130 spec NRC9448/9449's. They do the trick nicely even with the standard rear coils in place.

    The overall brief all along for this vehicle has been simplicity, reliability and strength. So far I have managed to keep within the guidelines with success


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #17
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    Yes the ride with standard suspension was good,but then like you I started adding things,so I went from 17mm coils to 19mm which I think were replacement standard defender,but it sat a bit higher so the load leveller didn't work until it really sat low and didnt bring it up level with the front,so in went the pollys,then I removed the leveller,pollys and fit 21mm springs hoping to simplify the hole thing,but the pollys when back in,its about as good as I can get it for now.

  8. #18
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    providing the starting height and wind count for the spring is the same and the initial rating is the same then there will be no noticable difference in the ride untill the spring starts to "relax" with age. then you'll probabley find that the deefer spring will hold up longer.
    Dave

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  9. #19
    Rangier Rover Guest
    You want simplicity..... Just take two dozen tennis balls with you
    I think your idea of shoving the other spring perches in is sound. I would have stayed on coils but my loads vary nearly every day.
    Air springs can be reliable.... Just put one way valves in the air system after the compressor and before the controller, then Tee in manual inflation valves as a back up The bellows are 14 times more puncture proof than a tyre.

    Back to the coils, I always think of them as a torsion bar. So regardless of the diameter, its the same twist effect.

    What you have in mind will work fine The spring rate will only change dramatically if you were to cut or shorten a 130 spring, then you have a shorter torsion bar in effect.

    Tony

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    You want simplicity..... Just take two dozen tennis balls with you



    Back to the coils, I always think of them as a torsion bar. So regardless of the diameter, its the same twist effect.

    .

    Tony
    Yes.. this is right, coils are a torsion bar in a compact form

    FWIW - it has been my experience that coils with the same nominal rates can feeel quite different - I've always assumed that the reason is different steels and varying heat treatment (doesn't help much after you order a new set and install them though - if they don't feel a you had hoped)

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