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Thread: Problem with wheel bearing replacment- help please

  1. #1
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    Problem with wheel bearing replacment- help please

    I'm in the middle of replacing the front wheel bearings on my 110.
    After drifting in the new outer cup no with problems, I then drifted in the new inner cup (the one adjacent to the hub oil seal)

    Problem is, the inner cup is loose in the hub - it has noticeable side to side movement and can be moved up and down by hand.

    Is this an issue - should I continue to re-assemble the hub?

    They are genuine Timken bearings, same part number as the old ones.

  2. #2
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Why were you replacing the bearings, was it due to a break down?
    Could it be the bearing seized and welded itself to the cup thus rotating and milling the hub so it is now loose.

    Might be time to get the calipers out and measure the hub to check

  3. #3
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    They didnt sieze up and cause a breakdown but I replaced them because of the sound and feel of them when turning the wheel while jacked up.

    I''ve also trouble maintaining bearing adjustment in this particular hub.

    Both the old cups had pitting and evidence of the wear, but the races were still intact and not welded to the cups.

    I suspect it probably has spun in the hub at some stage and have a sinking feeling I may need a new hub. If so, I hope I can get the other (tight) cup out without damaging it and reuse the new bearings....

    I have a RR front axle out the back - I wonder if early RR hubs will fit a 110?

  4. #4
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    Yep it sounds like someone who has previously replaced your bearings in that hub has nocked the inner cup in crooked and jagged the inside of the hub causing it to gouge bits of the hub out which can lead to the bearing cup spinning in the hub
    I wouldn't be suprised if a rangie hub will fit, not sure though...

    CHEERS TIM.

  5. #5
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    I've managed to remove both cups without damage. The bearing has definitly spun at some stage.

    Just checked the Rangie hub, everything lines up except the outer part of the hub is 5mm thicker on the County hub

    It might be possible to also use the RR axle and maybe the stub but I think the RR CV's are weaker than County CV's? The RR axles do have an integrated drive flange, which is one less contributor to driveline 'clunk'.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark2 View Post
    I've managed to remove both cups without damage. The bearing has definitly spun at some stage.

    Just checked the Rangie hub, everything lines up except the outer part of the hub is 5mm thicker on the County hub

    It might be possible to also use the RR axle and maybe the stub but I think the RR CV's are weaker than County CV's? The RR axles do have an integrated drive flange, which is one less contributor to driveline 'clunk'.
    Yeah the county cv's are a fair bit stronger than the later model classic rangie cv's, but arn't much stronger than the early model classic cv's, if i were you i would try stay with the county gear

    TIM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by long stroke View Post
    Yeah the county cv's are a fair bit stronger than the later model classic rangie cv's, but arn't much stronger than the early model classic cv's, if i were you i would try stay with the county gear

    TIM.
    I know, I know, but it is tempting to use free bolt in stuff which I already have, especially if the strength is comparable

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